RICH COOKS!

Giving Fast Food a Good Name

2011-07-18T12:21:00.000-04:00

Just as I'm reading a fascinating re-counting of the Greatest Game Ever Played (Colts v Giants, 1958), I discover a new, instant favorite spot to eat when I'm in the Main Line area outside Philly.

What's the connection? Why do I mention a football book in a food blog? Because said restaurant is Gino's, named for Hall of Fame defensive end Gino Marchetti, who played for the Baltimore Colts in that legendary game 50+ years ago, and was an original partner in the business...

Founded in 1957, Gino's was ahead of it's time in many ways. A predecessor to the likes of the Five Guys budding empire of bringing a higher standard to making fast food fresh, Gino's Burgers and Chicken was also the first fast food chain to "go big," introducing Gino's Giant, a triple-decker of a burger, in 1966. McDonald's soon followed suit, and the Big Mac was born.

Expansion from Baltimore was necessitated by its growing popularity, and the Gino's brand extended to much of the Atlantic seaboard corridor, including New Jersey and Philadelphia. But after 20+ years, Gino's disappeared almost as quickly as it won a place in the hearts of its food-loving fan base. Marriott bought the franchise in the '80s and Gino's was...gone, absorbed into the company's ill-fated Roy Rogers franchise. The catchy jingle touting, "Everybody Goes to Gino's" was put in mothballs, seemingly retired forever.

Fast forward to 2010. I'm in King of Prussia, PA. Almost directly across from the K of P Mall, a small restaurant is open for business. The name, the sign, the trademark red color looks...familiar. Nostalgic. A throwback. It's Gino's, and, as their advertising exclaims: "We're Back!"

My first experience with the food puts a smile of instant recognition on my face. I'd never been to an original Gino's back in the day, but the recognition is that of genuine, unprocessed, simple, and satisfying fast food. The burgers are griddled to perfection, juicy, and fresh, with a soft sesame seed bun and any toppings you want... free! The real revelation is the chicken tenders. They are incredibly flavorful and made to order. The focus is on the chicken, not the breading (what a concept!). And Gino's offers a bevy of specialty sauce-dipping options and seasonings (talk about having it your way!).

Even better news: Gino's is expanding...again. There are five locations in Pennsylvania and Maryland scheduled to open within the next year. An American entrepeneurial success story getting a second chance for a new generation. Good for Gino's. Good for me. Good for anyone who doesn't want to feel a pang of shame or guilt about enjoying "fast food" again.

This is far from generic. This, is Gino's...

Paper Menus & Chalk Boards, Part III: Serenbe

2011-07-18T10:51:00.000-04:00

Tucked away in the bucolic Chattahoochee Hills, but just a par-5 away from the bustle of the nation's busiest airport, Serenbe is an oasis southwest of Atlanta created from one couple's desire to restore an old country farmhouse as a getaway for their young family of five. It just so happens, that young couple was Steve & Marie Nygren, no ordinary pair of Atlantans.

Steve is the former head of a major restaurant group, and Marie is the progeny of one of the bastions of the Atlanta food scene. Her mom is Margaret Lupo, famous for the enduring Mary Mac's Tea Room . They bought that dilapidated farmhouse and the acreage around it in 1991... and through equal parts inspiration and perspiration, the seeds of an idea began to grow. Their home transformed into a B&B, and, using the trend of New Urbanism, combined with a passion for the arts and culture, the Nygrens teamed with experts in the field with a shared vision focusing on land preservation, and a planned walking community was born...

Happily, with the Nygrens collective culinary background, food is a centerpiece of the Inn at Serenbe, and the connected community as a whole. Befitting the name of this collection of blog posts, the Farmhouse (once the Nygrens home; now, the restaurant) continually generates new menus (yes, printed on paper!), based on Marie's seasonal findings. Appropriately, there is a chalk board that welcomes you when you enter the main dining room. Being there on a Thursday night is especially rewarding, because that is when Marie delivers her weekly inspirations, and the buzz and whir of creativity in the kitchen begins anew, featuring balanced dishes based on the organic bounty offered by the farm and its surroundings.

On this night's prix fixe tableau, I started with a Blueberry Lemonade cocktail (blueberry vodka, blueberry schnapps, muddled blueberries, lemonade) that was super fun and refreshing, the berries so ripe and plump it became a personal challenge (and quite a tease) to release them from their ice cube entrapment into my mouth. My meal was a 3-course symphony of Southern heart and soul. Chilled Serenbe Farm Cucumber Soup with Mint came straight from the farm outside my window. Cool and peppery, with the crunch of bright green cukes, and the mellow finish of fresh mint. Next, the entree. Baked Chicken with Farmhouse Red Pepper Jelly & Goat Cheese, Serenbe Farm Roasted Garlic Potatoes, & Hennessey Farm Italian Green Beans. The chicken was moist inside, glistening outside. The combo of creamy, smooth cheese, and slightly spicy jelly was a perfect pairing of flavor and texture. And, as you'd imagine, the two sides were vintage South compliments. Paired with a bottle of New Zealand Sauv Blanc (Matua Valley), the entire meal flowed effortlessly, fulfilling without being heavy. My wife and I shared the two dessert selections: Georgia Peach & Boe's Blueberry Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream & Wildflower Honey, and a Dark Chocolate Brownie with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. They were equally sinful, but in the obviously disparate ways. Still, both were happy endings, the homemade aspects shining through, especially the fruit pie creation, which Marie informed us was brand new, taking a cue from classic Southern fried pies, this one being baked, so its half-moon crust was extra moist and flaky. Judges ruling: Success!...

Our other two meals took place "in town," just a 1 mile stroll from the Inn. Lunch at Blue Eyed Daisy was quaint and tasty. I had a simple turkey, bacon, & avocado wrap, with fresh sprouts and chipotle mayo. This bakery and cafe is the heart of Serenbe community, serving breakfast and lunch, pastries and salads, cupcakes and cookies. I was duly impressed with the sheer volume of varied items you could order from such a small space. And the fun part of being here is that you run into the same familiar faces, lending to the communal feel.

Lunch on our departing day was at the other main restaurant in the area, The Hil. The name is a double entandre, named eponymously for Chef/Owner Hilary White and for the fact that it sits perched on "the Hill" on Selborne Lane. It is such an inviting space, with warmth and muted colors, and ample windows to survey the surrounding beauty outside. I had the lunch special, a crispy, fried eggplant "sandwich," with the eggplant serving as the bread, framing mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, and balsamic dressing. Chef White is an accomplished technician, with an impressive background from New York City and Atlanta, but it's her creativity, dedication to adhering to what's local, and Southern sensibilities that informs her food.

In fact, this is what makes all of Serenbe special. The food, the people, the buidlings. There's a tangible sense that something bigger than you is going on here, something you are drawn to, something you want to be a part of.

Sign me up for next summer, kids and all this time. I have a feeling Serenbe will be part of my life for a long time to come...

Paper Menus & Chalk Boards, Part II: Athens, GA

2011-07-17T21:09:00.002-04:00

If Atlanta is a bastion of the New South Food, Athens is its fiercely independent, free-spirited younger cousin. I am an adopted fan of the area, seeing as how my wife and many of her relatives wear their Bulldog colors so proudly (Goooo Dawgs!). It is a text book (pardon the pun) college town, which is to say, good music and good food abound. As part of our month (-plus) long Georgia travels, we spent some quality time with family in the area that's just a short drive down 78 from Snellville...

LAST RESORT GRILL

Dinner here was a homecoming of sorts for my wife, Jill, as well as our partners in crime, Sylvan and John, all of whom have beloved ties to downtown Athens. Lots of nostalgia, picture-taking, and reminiscing at our table, for sure. This place used to be a famous music haunt in the '60s before it closed its doors, and ultimately re-opened as a bistro. But all of that feel-good vibe would be quickly extinguished if the meal was a downer. Not knowing what to expect food-wise, I was very pleasantly surprised, first, with the digs, and second, with the food.

This was decidedly not a "college joint." It was college-cool inside, but with a certain, palpable sense of maturity, as well. The brick-exposed walls featuring local artists' works lend a certain bohemian feel, but the crowd was more young professional than coed. The cuisine matches that balance, and I'm convinced it's no coincidence, once I experienced what's being plated in the small, exposed kitchen.

First out was a communal Potato Onion Pancake (thanks for sharing, John Boy!). Shredded and griddled julienned potatoes with a five onion salad, topped with a garlic aoli and crispy fried leeks. Not greasy at all. Really light for a dish that could easily be the opposite. Amazing.

I started with a Spinach & Gorgonzola Salad, with spicy candied pecans, red grapes, and a creamy gorgonzola dressing. Really tasty and rich. Fresh ingredients with a fair amount of sweetness for good measure.

My main dish was a revelation on a number of levels. The Adobo Salmon was devoid of any of the typical "fishiness" that plagues it in other preparations. It was much ado about the chipotle and adobo seasonings it was marinated in, which gave it a nice crispy crust once it was given over to the grill. Even more impressive was the crispy, sauteed mustard greens underneath. They held up bite after bite, a more than capable compliment to the protein it supported. Real Southern ingredients, imagined in a way that is uniquely... Last Resort.

I've since come to learn about the local legend of Melissa Clegg, whose sterling reputation in the region influences not only this spot (as co-owner), but a host of others in the region, as well. She and Jaamy Zanegar are upholding their high standards of quality food and unwavering support of the Athens area, and it flows through Last Resort in every meal they serve. Of particular note, our dessert was an outstanding slice of Strawberry Cake, chosen in part because my brother-in-law and soon-to-be sister-in-law tapped the same one for their wedding cake! Over 700k slices of Cecelia Villaveces'cakes have been sold since 1992... now I know why. She's one of a number of local Athens businesses who partner with Last Resort to make it a memorable stop in the funky food city known as Athens...

IKE AND JANE BAKERY

The next morning, before touring the UGA campus with the kiddies, we stopped in an enclave known as Normaltown, on the road into Athens. It is here that Ike & Jane's bakery thrives on the same indie spirit and tremendous quality as its brethren down the road.

The donuts and pastries are fresh and eclectic (kids cereal topping et al), and a sweet tooth's haven, but I was gunning for the savory side of things. I ordered a biscuit sandwich, with eggs, cheddar, slab bacon, and jalapenos (!). Suffice to say, my stuffy nose was miraculously cleared in an instant after my first bite. I may as well have inhaled those peppers! The biscuit was delicate, buttery, and flaky, and the bacon was thick cut and peppery. So much flavor on one little "bi'cuit!"

Since it was a late breakfast for us, I felt obliged to order... something else. That something was a no-brainer when I saw the hand-written sign on the back wall behind the register: King of Pops SOLD HERE!

These guys are building a paletas empire in the Food Triangle of Atlanta, Asheville, and Charleston, with pop-up spots @ all points in between. I chose the Banana Pudding pop, with a hug chunk of fresh frozen banana smack dab in the middle of... well, frozen pudding! It was a creamcicle of the highest, freshest order, and especially satisfying on a sweltering July day.

What a refreshing, and delicious, way to start a day...

NEXT: PART III: SERENBE

On Parchment & Chalk Boards: The "Slo-cal South" Food Scene, Part One

2011-07-17T19:02:00.000-04:00

What I Learned (So Far) On My Summer Vacation: if a restaurant has a chalk board on the wall for specials, and disposable paper menus on the tables... you're in the right place for a quality, if not memorable, meal. If I may be so bold to coin a hybrid phrase, what I've experienced is the parallel paths of Slow Food and Locavore-ism. Hence, "Slo-cal" Food...

I planned a Summer Food-A-Palooza for my extended stay in the Atlanta area. Exhaustively compiled an extensive list of spots to choose from, ranging from A (Abbatoir) to Z (Zuma Sushi), with all culinary fetishes in between. As it goes (kids, work, weather, etc.), I have not been able to make a single check mark on my list...yet. But, when one (restaurant) door closes, another opens. I've so far been to no fewer than five memorable spots... and we've only reached the Ides of July!

HORSERADISH GRILL

Touting itself as a "Neighborhood Barn & Grill," Horseradish Grill stands as a rustic, yet sophisticated mainstay of Southern dining in the Atlanta suburbs. The chef, Daniel Alterman, is the son of the owner, and he grew up in the kitchen of this converted barn. He has the benefit and luxury of a beautiful and bountiful garden literally in his own back yard, and he uses it to its maximum yield. HRG has been doing for years what is now popularly recognized as the Slow Food Movement in the South: Grow your own. Use fresh, local ingredients whenever possible. Respect the source and the process. To this end, the Altermans are rightfully featured on Emeril's Cooking Channel tome to American dining institutions, "The Originals."

You feel at home in this prime piece of real estate across from Chastain Park, what with the bevy of blooming flowers in the front, and the beautiful veggies and herbs sprouting out back. The owners have done a good job of creating a space that is equal parts cozy and classy, and in many ways, the food can be described in the same way. My tablemates and I shared some apps first. The standout was the North Carolina Barbecue. A plate of pulled smoked pork atop a cornmeal pancake, with a crisp, creamy cole slaw and a vinegar-tomato sauce. Awesome balance of BBQ flavors, all coming together in ideal fashion for my tastes. I also enjoyed the HRG Caesar Salad, with house made cornmeal croutons and shaved Reggiano parmesan. I obliged the menu's siren call for its "Famous" Skillet Fried Chicken with garlic green beans and Yukon whipped mashed potatoes. And they serve you the entire chicken, in parts! The knowledgeable waitress let me in on the process: brining the chicken for 24 hours, then bathing it in buttermilk for another 24. Jack Bauer would be proud. Two shared desserts were equally different and decadent: an insanely rich and dense Chocolate Chocolate Layer Cake (do I studder?!), and a perfectly fresh Organic Peach Cobbler with homemade vanilla ice cream.

This was a solid, if not spectacular, Southern meal. There are a lot of newer Atlanta establishments that benefit from star chefs and glitzier locations, but Horseradish Grill still remains as an Original. Just ask Emeril...

CAKES AND ALE

In the heart of the locavore-loving hamlet of Decatur sits one of its latest darlings, Cakes & Ale. Named after a famous Shakespeare quote from Twelfth Night, this unassuming spot creates - and re-creates - their menu almost every day, the food made from scratch using the season's best, local and sustainable produce and products.

In stark contrast to the more traditional bent of Horseradish Grill, Cakes & Ale is all tattoos and piercings and black tees. But lemme tell ya, the New Guard can work a pan!

With the wealth of their selections scrawled in chalk upon entering, you know right off the bat what you're about to eat will be freshhhhh. What I was really surprised about was how diverse the offerings would be. Before the food mentions, I must give a shout out to one of the most interesting cocktails I've ever tasted. They clearly take equal pride in their mixology, and it shows. Their Pineapple Habanero Gimlet was sweet, spicy, and sensationally singular. Like a shot of Jamaican hot sauce with your gin and soda, except this beauty featured vodka instead of gin, lime juice, and powdered sugar along with the pineapple juice and pepper. Yeah, it was that good!

The food, as stated, was creatively cultivated, and technically precise. Our waitress was as subtle as a hammer in "recommending" we order tapas-style, with small plates to share between everyone at the table. The highlights included Arnacini (fried rice balls) sprinkled with pollen fennel, and the Buffalo Mozzarella with summer tomatoes, basil, prosciutto and fresh peaches. There was also homemade Gnocchi with lamb sugo and fresh chanterelles, each component melt-in-your-mouth good, and my seared Scallops were on point, as well. The dishes were imaginative riffs on classic combinations.

It's the kind of place that encourages sharing, tasting, and a bit of an adventurous palette. If you're up for all three of those, then Cakes & Ale is a place you'll look forward to making a habit of visiting...

Next: Part 2: Athens

A New (Old) Frontier in New Mexico

2011-07-10T14:18:00.001-04:00

Staying at a downtown hotel in Albuquerque afforded me easy access to the surroundings that make up the University of New Mexico campus. The strip on Central is typical of a downtown, campus-supported area: bars, cheap eats, etc. Turns out a legendary place is smack-dab across the street from the school's main entrance.

Frontier is the kind of place where generations and mingle easily and comfortably, any and all socio-economic and/or cultural differences set aside in favor of the honest, simple food served under the conspicuous yellow barn roof.

This spot has been so popular, in fact, that it now occupies an entire city block, having expanded over the years to engulf shops and eateries that have come and gone.

Frontier is open all day and night (5am-1am) and is apparently known for their own take on a sweet roll (appropriately named the Frontier Sweet Roll), but I was there for dinner... an authentic New Mexican dinner. Which is why I ordered the Frontier Burrito. Now, if you've never been through New Mexico, or the Southwest in general, you've never truly experienced the beauty of the Green Chile. It has an umami-like

quality, which is to say, there's something indescribable and unique that sets it apart from other chiles. Hot but not fiery, it speaks to my taste buds in a way no other spicy food does. And it's a common ingredient in EVERYTHING served in New Mexico. Everything!

So it was with my Frontier burrito, stuffed with beef, beans, and a green chile stew, along with the aforementioned chiles (you thought I was kidding?). This is old-fashioned, no-frills food... and I loved how the menu has a section reserved exclusively for "New Mexican Food." Not "Mexican," "NEW Mexican." There is a difference. And I tasted it in all it's simple, savory glory, at Frontier.

Hangover or not,.. THE place for Breakfast in Vegas

2011-07-10T13:46:00.000-04:00

I just so happened to be working at a Vegas TV station that was all of 5 minutes away from what turns out to be an Off-The-Strip breakfast institution since 1988. The Egg & I is a relatively nondescript joint off the beaten path, but all it takes is a cursory Internet search to realize this is a local fave. Now I know why...

Super-friendly service with your classic, homespun fare. There are also some creative combos listed on the menu, and I was drawn to the Bacon, Avocado, and Cheese Omelet. It was huge, and the heaping helping of home fries (cubed, seasoned, crispy) was nearly its match in sheer volume. The omelet was still relatively light, a feat considering how much was loaded inside. The bacon retained its crunch, and was complimented nicely by the smooth creaminess of the avo. A dollop of sour cream on the side was a nice touch, too.

But the unmitigated star is neither egg nor potato-based in nature. It is the Egg Works secret family recipe for their homemade banana muffins. I wouldn't have thought twice about it except for my aforementioned helpful server, who recommended I sub it for toast. Oh. My. Gosh. It is super-moist and dark, almost ebony, in color. The only things I could be sure of is that there was chocolate and molasses in the ingredients. Anything else that makes it so sensational remains a mystery. And maybe some things are better left unspoken. This was just one of the magical, memorable food moments that totally took me off guard. I know I will never taste many banana muffins in my time... and none will take the place of the stunner at the Egg & I...

A Random Helping of Restaurants

2011-07-02T18:21:00.000-04:00

I am summoning my inner-Springsteen cum "Light of Day" interlude for this post... seeing as how I've been there and back to any number of cities in between posts ("I've been 100 miles -- 200 miles -- 300 miles...").

The best place to start is right in my own backyard, with kudos to the Renaissance Vinoy for bringing the Blue Ribbon Brombergs into the fold to help jazz up their menus. The Bromberg Brothers have been at it since '92 in NYC (and now also have a spot at the Cosmo in Vegas). Got to attend a special "premier" party for the tastings unveiling, and there were small plates as well as 2 cocktails to enjoy. The lineup: BBQ Pork Sliders, Fried Rock Shrimp (with a lemon cayenne sauce), Grilled Chicken Burgers (the people's choice favorite!), Manchego and Mexican Honey Toast, "Northern Fried" Chicken Wings, and White Bean Hummus Toast.

All very tasty and a definite upgrade in reputation and results. Had the pleasure of spending a few minutes with Chef Eric Bromberg, who is a real down-to-earth guy, despite the massive success he and brother Bruce have experienced in recent years with their Blue Ribbon franchise. All I know is, I'm glad their consulting biz joined forces with Renaissance properties,and even happier that the Vinoy was in the pilot program to get this venture off the ground...

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Went a bit farther outta my way than usual on one of my frequent jaunts to the Philly area recently. Found myself at 333 Belrose Bar & Grill in Radnor for what turned out to be a better-than expected meal. The outside is so unassuming and tucked away... but the inside is classy and hip and inviting. The decor, the service, menu... all impressive. Enjoyed their Java Pork Tenderloin with Maple Smashed Yams, Black Bean Sauce, & a Mango-Jalapeno Salsa. A lot of flavor profiles going on in this dish... and they all worked so well. The meat was cooked perfectly and was extremely juicy. It was the centerpiece of a plate that had color, variety, and creativity. An out-of-the-way place that was clearly not a secret for the locals (it was bustling), and one that I look forward to returning to again...

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Vegas, Baby, for me, has nothing to do with casinos and clubs... it's all about the food scene, which is stellar, to say the least. With only one dinner to deal with, it was a no-contest as to where I was headed, despite the plethora of places to eat. Cue the Cosmopolitan for Chef Scott Conant's wine bar, juxtaposed to his well-loved Italian mini-empire, Scarpetta... DOCG. On his personal recommendation, I passed on a table in the main dining area, and bellied up to what is a gorgeous, sleek bar running the length of the right side of the restaurant.

I started with the DOCG Pizza, which was a symphony of classic white pizza flavors. Beautifully blistered thin crust, a mouth-watering foundation of fonduta cheese, a duck egg yolk that was broken and spread across the entire surface (and right in front of me!), and then the white truffles...ohhhhh, the white truffles. An embarrassing abundance of shavings that were equal parts delicate and decadent. The entire pie disappeared in an instant. Then, the main course: Braised Short Ribs with Creamy Polenta & Vegetables. The meat was exceptionally tender atop the dreamy polenta. The cabernet-colored sauce was almost an afterthought, what with the natural flavors of the ribs. A rustic, succulent dish that capably highlights what Scott envisions from his restaurants. Vintage Italian cookery, paying homage to comfort food at it's most classic, but refined and elegant, too. Simple and sophisticated. Scott, you've done it again...

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Still to come... my trip out West continues, with Albuquerque and Sacramento on tap...

Throw the perfect backyard bash

2011-06-26T11:54:00.000-04:00

Throw the perfect backyard bash

My show from Salt Lake City that wrapped up the "Back to Basics BBQ" Tour...

2011-06-09T12:36:00.001-04:00

Stay tuned for posts on my time in Vegas and Sacramento. Also have to mention my evening with Chef Eric Bromberg of Blue Ribbon fame...

2011-06-09T12:34:00.001-04:00

In SacTo reading about Hank Shaw and his unique food life. www.honest-food.net.

Unab-ASHE-ed Love

2011-06-03T13:54:00.000-04:00

I am working out of chronological order for this round of blog posts, because my most recent is the one I cannot wait to send out the most. I am in the throes of another barnstorming Food Media Tour, which sends me to 10 cities over the course of 2 weeks or so. But when a market is signed on that I've never been to, it gets my juices flowing. And when that market is based in Asheville, NC... well, get me a bib, because my salivary glands are going into overdrive...

I've long heard of Asheville as an impressive enclave of food, music, and the arts. The location in the Appalachian Mountains, the green spaces, the public places, conspire to form an idyllic backdrop for everything expressive. Location-wise, it doesn't disappoint. Think of it as Aspen's cool, crunchy cousin.

But, let's face it. I was here for the food. And I was on a mission of sorts, seeing as how I had less than 24 hours to visit an endless array of places recommended by either friends or reading materials. So herewith, my dining log from May 31-June 1, 2011...

4:25pm - I pull into downtown Asheville and immediately begin my quest. Unfortunately, I am in 'tweener time for some of the places I intend on visiting, so I decide to "get lost" on the streets and see what I can stumble upon. One recommendation I received was Magnolias. Come to find they're closed on Tuesdays, but it turned into a stroke of luck, because as I turned to head back into the heart of downtown I came across The Southern Kitchen & Bar . This was not on my list, but it seemed like the kind of place that had a quintessential Asheville vibe to it. From its appearance, I was not convinced of the food aspect, but I could tell it would be a great place to satisfy my thirst before I got to eating. Wrought iron scrollwork entryway, brick patio, dark mahogany and wallpaper interiors. Cool as a bar scene, for sure. I was right and wrong all at once. The beer -- a local (BTW, LOCAL is the key word in describing all things food and beverage related in Asheville) called Boogie Down Brown -- was spot on what I was looking for. I am a big Newcastle fan, and this had the nuttiness and deep flavor to it, but on an elevated level. Excellent. I ordered off their Happy Hour menu (from 3-5pm...YES!), and honed in on their version of the classic Hot Brown. Their was aptly named the Hot Southern, and it was amazingly restrained yet flavorful, considering it adhered to the main components of it origins. This version featured local braised, pulled pork atop a spread of pimento cheese on a crostini, topped with a radish-carrot slaw. What a fresh take! It was the antithesis of the heavy, saturated, gravy-forward dish your mind conjures when you hear Hot-Anything (for reference, a traditional Hot Brown originated in Louisville @ the famous Brown Hotel, and features turkey, bacon, and some commercial cheese, slathered in a Mornay gravy sauce.). This still had the savory tastes, but so thoughtfully re-imagined. A scan of the rest of their menu shows how diverse and creative this area as a whole can be. A tremendous surprise for starters on my sojourn... and only the beginning...

5:10pm - With no time to waste, I hiked up to the heart of downtown, on Patton Ave., for my first experience at Salsa's. Thanks to a friend's referral as a "must-go" spot, I got there right as they re-opened after their lunch reset. Let me tell you, Chef Hector Diaz is a freakin' rock star. So many temptations on his eclectic Mexican-Caribbean menu. I went with a special on that day's menu: Spliff Rolls (how could I not?!). Best way to describe these: Crab Rangoon on Vacation in Jamaica. Crispy won ton-inspired tortillas filled with an intoxicating mix of crab, cheese, and peppers, accompanied by a spicy curry sauce and a gorgeous, fresh pineapple salsa. This dish had it all going on at once. Crunchy, sweet, heat, meaty, cheesy... I mean, c'mon, how could it not be named what it is?! It was all I could do to resist what I knew were killer margaritas, but I had more work to do. This stop was spectacularly satisfying. Onward!...

6:10pm - My third and final stop of the evening (I'm a glutton, but even I have limits...) was at the newest face of the Asheville food scene, and some may say it's most ambitious. Curate is only a few months old, but it's already garnering local and national acclaim. I read about it in GQ and made it a point to pay a visit, based on the fact that it's proprietors are descendants of El Bulli (reality check: this would be the closest I'd be coming to the Most Famous Restaurant in the World for quite some time, if ever). Curate promises traditional Spanish tapas, but something was telling me this was not going to be typical. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, yet sophisticated and even chic for Asheville's laid back standards. I ordered two small plates: the patatas bravas and the berenjenas la taberna. Both came out at the same time, and it was like a classic Spanish duel for my taste buds' affections. The patatas -- small chunks of fried potatoes topped with a combo "brava" sauce (think gourmet mayo and spicy ketchup) -- brought the savory to the battle; the berenjenas -- large eggplant medallions lightly fried and drizzled with wild mountain apiary honey topped with rosemary -- delivered on the sweets. There was pure culinary artistry on the plate, and every bite was validation of the reputation that already precedes this place. My glass of Con Class ( A Sauv Blanc blend) was a willing and able side note. The battle was a draw. But I was the winner...

10:15am -- Tupelo Honey Cafe for a breakfast I've been thinking about since my last bite before bed the night before. Breakfast is my favorite, and the first thing that jumped out at me from their tantalizing menu was their Sweet Potato Pancakes. Buttermilk batter with cinnamon and sweet potato mixed in, topped with whipped fresh peach butter and spiced pecans. OH. MY. GOD. Much like my raves for Charleston's Husk, this is what New South Cooking is all about. Elegantly accomplished, yet comfortably casual. This is my definitive Favorite Pancake from this point forward. The standard bearer by which all others will be measured. I felt like I wanted to eat... the whole restaurant. It was the kind of meal that makes me smile while I am chewing. This alone warrants a return trip to Asheville (as if I will need such further motivation)...

11:05am -- Satiated as I was from my pancake nirvana, I forged ahead for one last stop: Early Girl Eatery. This is another Asheville staple; a true farm to table Southern spot that is as endearing on the inside as the name would indicate. Despite how tempting the morning special Omelette sounded, I felt the pang of tradition tapping in my stomach. I ordered the Shrimp 'n Grits because... well, that's what you order in a town like this, at a place like this! The shrimp were plump and plentiful; the andouille sausage was spot on; the grits were prepared perfectly; the gravy was not too heavy and dotted with tomatoes. A fitting conclusion to my Asheville Experience...

You see tee-shirts at every venue proclaiming "Love Asheville." These folks are fiercely devoted to their city and their food philosophy of Local, Local, Local. It shows in what's put on the plate, and almost more so in the people who deliver it. Asheville, you have my heart, and my taste buds. I cannot wait to return to try any number of other places to fall in love with as I have already with the 5 I was introduced to this time around. I'm all in.

I most certainly do Love Asheville...

WLOS ABC 13 News :: Top Stories - Backyard Blowout Cookout ideas- MY40 This Morning

2011-06-02T15:54:00.000-04:00

WLOS ABC 13 News :: Top Stories - Backyard Blowout Cookout ideas- MY40 This Morning

Napa Valley Food & Wine Festival Announced

2011-04-22T12:49:00.000-04:00

Napa Valley Food & Wine Festival Announced

Here we go... my buddy and chef/impresario Scott Conant will also be appearing... my wheels are turning already!

Two to Chew On...

2011-04-22T11:42:00.000-04:00

Had the pleasure of sampling treats from 2 "grass roots" gourmands recently. Wanted to share their info so you could check 'em out yourselves.

The first is Simon Says Brownies. Stacy Simon stumbled into her brownie biz in what I like to call a "happy accident." Actually, it was Mother Nature who intervened, but check out her site to get the whole story. Her brownies are super tasty. I happen to like them because they remind me of brownies I'd make in my home kitchen with my kids...but with a gourmet wrinkle. So, they're familiar and homespun, but next-level creative. A great combo!

Also one to watch for: Coffee Cakes from Jennifer's Kitchen . Jennifer Korb has been working from her kitchen for years, but I think she's mined confectionery gold by focusing on these absolutely delish sweet and savories. She has a number of different flavors; some traditional, some not so much. Harvest Apple. Banana Chocolate Chip. Sour Cream Pecan. The texture is unique. Buttery, smooth, and crunchy all at once. They are just dense enough to satisfy, even though you're always left wanting more. After all, I am a firm believer in Too Much of a Good Thing Is a Good Thing!

Jennifer is a creative one, and I have it on good authority that she is developing other tastes in her kitchen as we speak, but until then, let her coffee cakes stand as her calling card. They are certainly worthy of that...

Add these two to your reading list...

2011-04-11T13:26:00.000-04:00

I've read 2 of Michael Ruhlman's books, and became an instant fan. He is far more advanced a cook than I may ever be, but he writes from a place that I aspire to be, and I find inspiration between the common threads in his writing voice and mine. He has blazed a trail which I am endeavoring to follow...

Today, he posted a review of the latest in a growing pantheon of chef memoir books: this one, by celebrated Modernist Chef Grant Achatz . There is also mention of Gabrielle Hamilton's much-anticipated Blood, Bones, & Butter. I could digress into mentioning that my TV show I created and am developing runs along these lines (pardon the pun) -- "What is life on the line really like?" -- save for the fact that I am a mere cook and food enthusiast, with nowhere near the skills these two chefs cum authors possess. Nevertheless, I would still find these reads interesting because of who they are as personalities, where they've come, and how they've arrived.

Good reads if you love both ends of the food spectrum: Achatz's "out there" creations, pushing the envelope of contemporary cuisine; and Hamilton's "back to basics" comfort food fetishes...

My Very Own Slow Food Movement

2011-04-08T13:59:00.000-04:00

Threw together a tasty and super simple lasagna meal last night. I used my crock pot, and it never ceases to amaze me how much of a help it is in the kitchen. There's something magical about putting in your ingredients...and letting the slow cooker do the rest of the work!

Here's what you do if you have about 15 minutes of hands-on time to spare:

SLOW COOKER LASAGNA

Spread 3/4c marinara sauce in the bottom of the crock pot.
Layer 2 lasagna noodles (uncooked) on top, breaking them to fit and cover.
Cover with a 1/2 of the total mixture of 2 thawed and squeezed boxes of frozen chopped spinach, 1c ricotta cheese, 1c shredded mozzarella, 1/2c grated parmesan.
Pour another 3/4c marinara sauce on top.
Repeat the steps: lasagna noodles; spinach mixture; marinara.
Top with 2 more lasagna noodles, then cover with mozzarella and parmesan to your liking.
Cover and let it cook on LOW for about 4 hours.

I Just Ate A 5,000 Year Old Burrito...

2011-04-07T16:18:00.000-04:00

What was a not-so-well-kept secret and point of pride in Tampa, has now migrated to the burgeoning foodie confines of Saint Petersburg, FL. I speak -- and glowingly so -- of the instant classic Taco Bus, which stands for all things good and conscientious and ... tasty as hell!

Taco Bus (which by the way, have the coooolest resto tees I've seen -- eat your heart out, Adam Richman!) leverages the hotness and hipness of the food truck wave, with the indie uniqueness of a pop-up restaurant, and the freshness that defines the locavore movement.

All this to say... this is mighty good Mexican food! I've been there twice now, since they opened in St. Pete in January -- most recently, today for lunch with my friend and fellow foodie Chris. I surprised even myself with my initial order on my maiden voyage: I went VEGAN! The Butternut Squash Tostada is prepared Yucatan style, with gorgeous, tender chunks of gord mixed with pico de gallo and topped with quesa cotija Mexican cheese. Light, flavorful, filling, and the crunch of the tostada reminds you this is legit with every bite...

Today, though, was the topper: a Conchinita Pibil Burrito, which I come to find is a 5,000 year old Mayan recipe. They marinate the meat in anchiote and bitter orange and wrap it in banana leaves, then slow roast it in a smoker. A dios mio! The shredded pork was incredible, magnified by the fact that all of this is accomplished on four wheels!

Something you'll love about Taco Bus is how you can personalize your order: every entree is made to order, so you can get the Pibil in a quesadilla, or a taco, just as easily as I did in a burrito, and the same goes for every protein, on down the list.

This is no-nonsense, honest-to-goodness, authentic Mex. It is another reason St. Pete is the best kept secret for foodies. Look out Charleston, Atlanta, and the other better-known culinary destinations.

The 'Burg is breathin' down your back!

call it RICH-sotto

2011-03-23T22:09:00.006-04:00

I've been on a major risotto kick lately. You may even call it a bender. No doubt about it, I have risotto on the brain these days...

The more I ponder the wonders of this classic Italian dish, the easier it becomes to understand why one could so quickly become addicted to it on a number of levels... but I can only speak for myself:

Risotto is authentic. Dig into your grandmother's grandmother's cook books, and you'd find at least one recipe for the stuff. It's multigenerational, Old World cooking.

Risotto is adaptable. The base of your risotto should always remain constant: shallots/onions, arborio rice, white wine, stock/broth of your choosing, cheese (preferably, parm). But the rest is blissfully left to your wildest imagination. Lobster, mushrooms, corn, bacon, butternut squash... just about any ingredient within reason can find a home in risotto. It's the Ellis Island of Italian eating.

Risotto is... wait for it... easy. Wait a minute -- did I just write that? Don't you have to pore over your stove top, plodding, coaxing, conjuring the ingredients to get the desired effect just right?? In a word: NO. I am no expert, but any risotto dish I've made takes no more than 30 minutes... AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO CONSTANTLY STIR!!! All risotto needs is a little love and attention. Don't let it soak up the liquid completely; give it the ol' wooden spoon swirl now and then, and your dish will come to life before your very eyes.

And maybe the best of all: Risotto makes you feel like a chef. Yes, while the components and the execution are not death-defying, I still always get that satisfaction of knowing that this could be as close to restaurant-quality fare as I'll ever get in my home kitchen. There's a truth I find in making risotto; a balance of pride and humility. This is good, honest cooking.

For my money (and taste), I rarely measure out ingredients, but it usually goes something like this for the risotto itself:

2 diced shallots in olive oil in a large saute pan.

When softened, add 1c arborio rice, and mixing until coated.

Add 1c white wine (Chard, Sauv Blanc, even Pinot will do)

Once most of the liquid is absorbed add 1/2c doses of broth (I default to chicken), adding more each time the liquid is absorbed. Continue for approx. 20:00.

Add extra ingredients of your choice.

Stir in 1/2-1c grated Parmesan cheese.

Try these few samplings of add-ons. I've recently made them all, with great fanfare...

Baby Bella
Corn and Bacon

Zucchini and Roasted Sweet Peppers
Butternut Squash and Wild Mushrooms

At it's best, it's creamy and comforting; rich and rewarding; savory and simple. It's...

risotto.

Finally... HUSK

2011-03-15T15:52:00.006-04:00

It's been more than a month since I've feverishly opined on my favorite eats on this site. For that, I am a bit embarrassed, ashamed, and, quite honestly, frustrated with myself. I could summon a litany of excuses for this delinquency (travel; work; family), but none would be sufficient, especially in light of the singular posting I have failed to deliver... yet now return to do so.

This one entry serves as a documentation of one of the finest meals I have had in recent memory, if ever. If that sounds a bit hyperbolic... then you must -- and I mean MUST -- get yourself to Charleston, South Carolina for a meal at Husk.

Poised ever-so-close to the Charleston culinary institution that is Poogan's Porch (see a previous post on this site) on Queen Street, Husk, in such a short time (having only opened its doors in November, 2010), has set the new standard for Southern cooking.

Chef Sean Brock, a James Beard award-winner, has infused a welcomed sense of contemporary with the classics that exist in Charleston, and the South in general. This carefully skilled balancing act between honoring the roots of Southern cuisine, and blazing a bold, technical and philosophical trail with the food is exceedingly high on the "genius" scale, in my humble estimation. You can call it a "re-imagining" of Southern food, but that would an injustice to the old guard, and the new.

There is so much comfort in this cuisine... but what strikes me first is what is printed on top of the lunch menu: the date. You see, every day -- every day! -- Brock institutes a new menu for both lunch and dinner. The staff usually doesn't know what they'll be serving until that morning. What goes hand in hand with this high wire act is the fact that Brock is an impassioned leader in the locavore movement.

"If it doesn't come from the South, it's not coming through my door," Brock is quoted on Husk's web site. And to that end, almost every dish on the ever-evolving (and re-volving) menu gives provenance to the main ingredients. Plus, so much of he puts on the plate is produce in house; from charcuterie to ketchup to pickles.

As for myself, I started with Roasted Sweet Potato Soup with Crispy Duck Confit and Brown Butter Crumble. Absolutely incredible. The silky smooth base complimented perfectly in taste and texture by the confit and the crumbles. It's a dish that warms your soul. There's an adage about the ability to make great soup being one of the tell-tale signs of an accomplished chef. If that is the case, then Mr. Brock is in elite company.

With so many appetizing options on the menu, I thin-sliced and went with my initial hunch: South Carolina Shrimp and Grits, with Stewed Tomatoes and Peppers, and Benton's Bacon. (Apparently, Allan Benton, the eponymous owner of said bacon company, is still the High Priest of Pork. Google the name and you'll see just how revered this Tennessee-based brand is.) Mind you, I am not a huge fan of shrimp and grits, but I recognize it's sanctity in Southern fare, so I figured it would be a worthy barometer. Well, that barometer is pegged... the dish is off-the-charts good. Truthfully, in looking back, it may not have been the grits per se that make it so memorable. It's the combination of fresh ingredients, the melding of the sweet shrimp, smoky bacon, and spicy peppers, that really makes it a standout.

Just itching to tempt fate, I couldn't resist ordering desert, especially when my knoweldgable and friendly waiter suggested the Coffee and Donuts. Think Thomas Keller meets Krispy Kreme. It was a coffee flavored donut cake, topped with Krispy Kreme-flavored ice cream. This was almost too much to take. I was saved by the fact that the portion was modest, because I could have easily devoured three more at least. This desert is a microcosm of Husk's food: understated in presentation, yet expert in execution and creativity.

Never has one meal made me fall in love with the city it calls home. But I am now a devtoee of Charleston, in no small part due to the fact that I am a head over heels for HUSK.

Double Dose of Charleston Charm

2011-02-09T13:54:00.008-05:00

Let me start by saying, unequivocally, I had one of the best meals of all time on my recent trip to Charleston, SC. I will reveal that experience and location following this initial introduction to Charleston cuisine. The two establishments at which I ate provide a fascinating yin and yang to the current Charleston dining scene, and literally next door to each other on Queen Street!

First, there is the classic: Poogan's Porch, which has been serving up top quality Southern fare since 1976. In a house built in 1888. Voted one of the most haunted restaurants in America. Named after a scruffy neighborhood dog, who wandered the porches of the antebellum houses on the block. Vintage Charleston.

Went there on a Wednesday night, and the place was hoppin'. Tons of character inside these walls. Lots of celebs who've visited and left behind their pictures and autographs, along with words of effusive love for the food. And for good reason.

I started with the She-Crab Soup, which was good, not great. It left me wanting something... more. Next up: Fried Alligator, with Honey Jalapeno sauce on the side. The 'Gator was perfectly crispy outside, tender inside. The sauce was outta this world! I coulda dunked my own finger in the sauce and it woulda tasted great.

The true indication of why Poogan's is so special, though, and such a worthy representative of classic Southern dining came in the form of my entree: Plantation Fried Chicken. I opted for this version because it included melted Fontina cheese and country ham stuffed inside the breast -- a Southern riff on Cordon Bleu. The chicken was perfectly put together, and soooo crispy on the outside (the key component to successful fried chicken, right?). Major kudos to Executive chef Daniel Doyle and Chef de Cuisine Matthew Lewis for my initiation to Southern comfort, food style...

It also needs to be noted that I had a terrific beer with my meal, one that was new to me: Rogue's Dead Guy Ale. It's a Portland, Oregon brand that I've come to learn has garnered much love and accolades from the beer community. Highly recommend it, and can't wait to get back home and seek it out. Add it to my list of craft faves: Abita, and Magic Hat...

Next up: the meal that ranks up there as one of the absolute finest I've enjoyed in recent memory...

Bartolotta and the Sea

2011-02-08T11:26:00.007-05:00

My ongoing infatuation with famed Milwaukee Chef Paul Bartolotta continues. I've raved about his flagship Italian ristorante multiple times before. I've previously drooled over his French fare. Now it's time savor the best seafood -- and the best views -- this impresario has attached to his family food empire.

The Harbor House is the very latest turn for Bartolotta, and it is distinctly seafood-oriented. Situated on a gorgeous plot looking out onto the water and the Milwaukee Art Museum's impressively postmodern Quadracci Pavillion (for those of you who are American Idol fans, one of their "audition" episodes this season took place there), the views are as memorable as the interior and, of course, the food.

Head Chef Carlos DeLeon executes a wonderfully diverse, yet traditional menu. I went with the Lobster Pot Pie (I know... doesn't it just sound amazing?!). Huge, rustic hunks of potatoes, carrot, and pearl onions complimented the equally generous claw meat, all encased in a delicate cocoon of puff pastry. It was exactly what I imagined it to be: hearty and satisfying; indulgent, yet not overly rich.

The Harbor House has only been around since 2010, but it has the feel -- the soul -- of a place that's been around much longer... which no doubt, it soon will be.

The Bartolotta Midas Touch continues...

Sweet Home, Alabama

2011-02-08T11:03:00.004-05:00

Found myself with some time for a little breakfast exploring in Montgomery, Alabama. Thanks to the wonders of the InterWeb, my search for "best breakfasts Montgomery" turned up a local favorite, Shashy's Bakery & Fine Food. Thanks to Mr. Breakfast for this recommendation!

First good sign: just about every car in the lot had an Alabama license plate. Turns out, Shashy's (eponymously named after the owner) is equal parts upscale and down home at the same time. As my waitress told me, it's been around 20 years, but it still feels like a "best kept secret" type spot, despite it's increasing popularity due to many favorable internet reviews. All this, and Shashy's bucks the trend and does not have their own web site!

The exterior and interior blend have a shabby chic appeal, their corrugated metal walls in stark, yet clever contrast to the ornate chandeliers hanging throughout the place. The tables and chairs? Decidedly diner-style. The floors and fixtures, though: prim and proper. Like I said... upscale meets down home.

Most importantly, of course, the food... served with Southern charm, and plentiful. The coffee was fresh and never got past half-empty before a friendly refill. My ham, cheese, and tomato omelette was extra-large and just right. The side of grits came to life with just a small pat of butter. A perfect way to start a day!

Too bad I'm flying out and don't have the room (luggage or stomach) to take along some of their fresh-baked goods. They all looked sinfully good.

Shashy's scores well on every level, especially if you like to eat where the locals eat...

A Must-Have Meal in Milwaukee

2011-01-26T11:33:00.005-05:00

Chef Paul Bartolotta has accomplished something that perhaps a superstar chef can only achieve in the Midwest: he has created a culinary empire that still feels like a family-run establishment. Maybe that's because... it is. Brother Joe still runs the flagship, Ristorante Bartolotta, in the leafy burg of Wauwatosa, and the spot's cozy confines make you feel as if you're walking into your grandma's house for Sunday dinner... that is, if your grandma had garlic, peppers, peasants, and assorted charcuterie hanging from the ceiling!... This welcoming homieness, of course, belies the fact that there is some seriously refined, albeit classic, Italian cooking going on here.

This time around, I started with the Affettato Misto di Prosciutto e Salumi alla Emiliana - an assortment of shaved prosciutto and other Italian cured artisan meats with traditional gnocco fritto. Mortadella. Sopresatta. Speck. It was all there, and the gnocchi fritto was an amazing addition to the plate, like mini-sweet rolls, all crunchy and chewy at the same time. A more than healthy portion of all the good stuff...

My entree was one of the two pasta dishes where the pasta is freshly made in-house: Ravioli di Magro al Burro Nociola Tartufato - house made ricotta and spinach ravioli, with Grana Padana and truffled butter. Melt in your mouth goodness. A classic example of how premium ingredients combined with back-of-the-house know-how makes for a transcendent presentation, even in its simplest form...

My favorite dessert is tiramisu, and ordering is always a calculated risk, seeing as how there a number of variations on this Italian classic. Knowing I was in the best of hands at Barotolotta, I splurged (having reveled in it before didn't hurt my chances either!). This is my personal gold standard for this dessert. Lots of creamy, custardy, fluffy goodness, tinged ever-so-slightly by a subtle coffee-amaretto highlight, and accented by a dusting of cocoa powder and powdered sugar. An absolutely ideal finisher to what is always a satisfying and sensational dining experience.

Albu-Quirky

2011-01-25T22:54:00.003-05:00

I've been to Albuquerque a number of times, and stay at the same hotel in Old Town. Why? Because of one thing: their restaurant's Blue Cornmeal Pinon Pancakes. If you've never had cornmeal pancakes of any type, you should seek them out or try making them yourself. But the pancakes at the Hotel Albuquerque surpass just about any I've sampled. This is a breakfast that falls more to the side of savory than sweet. The cornmeal base give the pancakes a heft to them, and just a bit of crisp to the edges -- almost brulee-like -- while still remaining moist. Adding the pine nuts is a welcome change from the usual standard fare toppings. In this instance, I refrain from all butter, and only sparingly use the syrup. It should serve as nothing more than an enhancer...

And while on the subject of Albuquerque and quirky... major shout out to the great folks at Grandma's K & I Diner, near downtown, but off the beaten path. As luck would have it, some production friends of mine were in town shooting an episode of a food show (that shall at this moment remain nameless), so I met up with them there.

The staff is super-friendly. The food is legit, and the portions are GINORMOUS! (maybe that's a giveaway as to what show was taping there)...

SLC Part Deux: Most Certainly Not a Lemon

2011-01-25T22:15:00.009-05:00

Touring the country in support of food-related festivities in the run up to the Super Bowl this time of year lends itself to two things: cold weather in almost every market I call on... and the chance to meet some pretty interesting people (aka Chefs) at the shows on which I appear.

This was the case when I met Chef Todd Leonard, of Blue Lemon restaurant. He did two cooking demos that morning: 1 featuring a citrus salmon (I was intrigued); the other with a riff on duck confit (I was drooling). This narrowed my choices for searching for a place to eat lunch before departing fair Salt Lake City to just one. The newest location is situated in the plum spot in the heart of the revitalization of Historic Downtown Salt Lake City. It's modern, hip design strikes a compelling counterbalance to the sheer majesty of what sits directly across the street: the tabernacle and the church. Awe-inspiring, to say the least.

Blue Lemon is a fresh take on what it calls "pure clean food with a twist." The "pure, clean" part means they never fry or microwave their meals. The twist, I come to find out, is that it's delicious...

It's a very economical and efficient cafeteria-style ordering process, which doesn't actually feel like one at all, given the chic, modern decor. I settled on the butternut squash soup and the pineapple chipotle brisket sandwich, and both were excellent. Bright, rich, fresh flavors and textures. Stuff you could feel good about eating, even while you know you're still indulging. The soup was seasoned with just enough kick to give it personality, and came with a couple of extra large croutons that stayed impossibly crunchy even down the bottom of the bowl. The brisket was moist, tender, and juicy, and didn't fall apart in my hands with every bite, which is how I prefer my brisket. Wonderful balance of sweet fruit and spicy chipotle, and yet you still taste the beef itself.

Now, this was a send-off I aspire to in every city I visit. Count this as a very pleasant surprise from Salt Lake City...

Savory in Salt Lake City

2011-01-25T12:58:00.005-05:00

I usually get to treat myself to one blog-worthy meal per city when I'm on the road. My travels feel more like an endless parade of rental car lines than restaurants. In one afternoon; out the next morning.
But so it was that I had the good fortune of arriving in Salt Lake City while some family members were also there, wrapping up a ski trip...
Mark & Megan both loved their meal at Tuscany so much that they agreed to take me there for dinner. The restaurant sits at the base of the mountains surrounding SLC, and has a mixed vibe of "ski resort meets NoCal." Suffice to say, that's a good combo. Smooth, neutral-tone walls; wood-paneled ceilings; lots of windows to enjoy a view. And two excellent sights: the Chihuly-esque chandelier when you enter, and the huge hearth-like fireplace in one of the rooms of this manse. A place that makes you want to take your time with your meal...

We shared a bottle of Columbia Crest Cab, which we all decided was stellar, if not sensational. A bit lighter than most Cabs (and if you're a Cab fan, maybe this is a strike against; however, for me, it's a tally in the plus column), with some spiciness to balance out the oaky taste.
I started with an interesting salad of pear, gorgonzola, and mixed greens, with a white balsamic champagne vinaigrette. What made this extra enjoyable was how the greens were prepared: it had a slaw-like texture to it, all the flavors instantly coming together on the tongue.
A tough choice for the main course, but I went with the Wood-Oven Roasted Filet of Salmon with Pancetta Pesto Crust and toasted Vegetable Couscous. What sold me was the description, which included "Wood-Oven Roasted, and Pancetta Pesto Crusted." It was somewhat of a restrained order for me, what with the Veal Chop, the Double Cut Pork Chop, and other entrees that promised a much heartier meal. However, I was glad to see I made the right choice. The salmon was perfectly cooked and flaky and moist, the pancetta/pesto/panko mixture locking in the juices inside, while crisping perfectly on the outside. And the Israeli couscous was a great compliment, with a hearty yet delicate texture.
The only disappointment was dessert. I always make a point of reserving this blog space for raves only, but I feel it would be remiss of me not to call out the miss that was their
Banana Cream Pie in a coconut tart shell with brulee topping, chocolate and caramel sauce. We couldn't figure out where the cream was on the plate we shared, and the tart itself was dry and coarse. Although the brulee topping was tasty, the dessert fell flat for all of us. I should mention we passed on the 7'4" Chocolate Cake (named in honor of Tuscany's investor, former Utah Jazz center Mark Eaton), which according to my mealmates, is outstanding...

Stay tuned...gotta hop a flight... when I return...memorable meal #2 from the SLC!...

The Last Train to Clarksville

2011-01-23T23:50:00.007-05:00

I get to visit some pretty remote locales on my ESPNU college basketball itinerary, and so it was that I found myself approximately 45 miles outside of Nashville, in the relative seclusion of Clarksville, Tennessee, home of the Austin Peay Governors. As is usually the case in and around a collegiate university, there can be some pretty stellar, if not unassuming, places to eat, especially if you want experience the local flavor.

So it was with that context that I found myself directly across College Street from APSU, at Johnny's Big Burgers. Some local spots... you just know. Johnny's is just that kinda spot.

Counter seating? Check. Menu board posted on the back wall? Check. Well-seasoned griddle, next to an even more well-worn fryolator? Check and check...

I was compelled to order along party lines: double cheeseburger, fries, vanilla milk shake. The shake was a bit of a misnomer, as there was no straw necessary (matter of fact, none was even offered or provided!) Ultra-thick, and with that state fair/soft serve flavor. Just right.

This is another of the places providing convincing evidence to yours truly that the best way to prepare a burger is to griddle it. The bun got a subtle yet healthy brush of melted butter before joining it's compatriot on the sizzling hot surface. The fries took their peanut oil bath and arrived piping hot next to the burger, all golden brown in their crinkle-cut glory.

This plate did not disappoint in the least. It looked classic. It felt like a classic. It tasted like a classic, in every way. Juicy, meaty, satisfying. A bit messy, just the way it should be. After devouring every bite with aplomb, it's safe to say this was a burger I'd put up against any I've had. Ever. Clarksville might be a mid-major town, but Johnny's can compete with the best of 'em...

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE!

After satisfying my own cravings, I returned shortly thereafter with my TV partner, so enamored was I with Johnny's. My intention (really!) was to keep AB company while he got his taste of burger nirvana. Only problem: there were whispers from the locals about a must-have dessert... the vaunted Toasted Honey Bun with Vanilla Ice Cream. Now, I am intimately familiar with this treat, having enjoyed many a THB at the Syracuse haunt, Cosmo's. Clarksville denizens refer to theirs as an "HB with Cream." Mmmmmmmm... right off the griddle (no thank you, microwave), icing all gooey, topped with vanilla ice cream. The warm and cold combo is always a winner. This one was a throwback for me, and oh so good. Sweet, creamy, with that ever-so- slightly crispy and caramelized shell (thank you, griddle).

At check out (cash only!), pictures of Muhammad Ali and Elvis share space on the wall, two Southern icons, much like the feeling I got from this place.

Johnny's is a snapshot of simple, tasty times. The classics always endure...

Worlds Colliding in Philly

2011-01-14T09:22:00.003-05:00

Been a while since my latest entry, but I cut myself some slack, due to my ridiculously hectic January thus far. Not a whole lot of cooking because I've been away from home so much; not a lot good eats on the road either, much to my chagrin. Calling college basketball games for ESPNU doesn't always lend itself to visiting cities/towns that warrant much raving (see: Murray, KY; Pine Bluff, AR). But, there are exceptions... to wit, my dizzying travel schedule dropped me in Philadelphia the past 2 nights... and I was NOT going to pass up the chance to get some real eating in!

In search of a quick but rewarding meal the first night, I defaulted to the Ruth's Chris that was directly across Broad Street from my hotel. I ate at the bar, as I am wont to do (dining alone lends itself to that). To my surprise and delight, the bar menu featured half-price foodstuff for happy hour. Let me tell you: this is a GREAT DEAL! I went with an unorthodox take on Surf & Turf: Voodoo Lobster and the BBQ sliders, thinking it would equal the amount of food I would normally get for an entree... I was wrong.

The lobster dish is reminiscent, if not a bit elevated, conceptually, of Bonefish Grill's Bang-Bang Shrimp: lightly breaded and fried, and smothered in a spicy-sweet-savory sauce. A nice-sized portion, and very tasty, although the amount of sauce comes dangerously close to overpowering the natural goodness of the lobster.

The Sliders are a revelation in proportion. Three on a plate, as is usually the case, but the size of each was more than substantial; almost intimidating! The sheer sight of the them drew gasps from my barfront brethren. I could've done without so much of their housemade BBQ sauce, because I chose this option for the simple fact that I wanted steak with ordering a steak! In that respect, it was on point. Generous portions of sliced filet, accompanied by sauteed mushrooms and onions. Tasting this takes you to a place somewhere in between Memphis BBQ and -- well -- a steak house!

The best part?

With a Yuengling and a glass of Pinot, my bill came to a shade over $20. TWENTY DOLLARS!!!
That, my food friends, is bang for your buck...

Last night, I was determined to make it to a resto I've long heard of and aspired to visit. Full disclosure, I was politely turned away from Vetri the first night, which made me ever more determined to fulfill my desires on this night.

It all works out for the best, as I had great company to join me this time: Adrian Branch, my broadcast partner, came with me after our game. The first thing that strikes me is how small Vetri is. Took away the sting of not getting a table the night before, to be honest! It is dimly lit, welcoming, and warm inside. Like a single floor of a converted brownstone. The decor is casual, yet also gives off an air of rustic sophistication, which, I soon found, is an apt way to describe Marc Vetri's food.

I'd read all about how this is the best resto in Philly -- some even going so far to ask the question "Is this the best Italian restaurant in the country?" -- so I was more than ready to experience it firsthand. My budget prevented me from going overboard, which would've been so simple to do, what with everything on the menu sounding so tempting. AB and I both went with the Red Wine Bucatini with Stilton and Pickled Vegetables and House-Cured Speck.

A dish like this can change the way you look at pasta. The bucatini, it's long strands roughly swirled on the plate, were perfectly al dente. As a matter of fact, this is what I will now hold up as the standard-bearer of what al dente truly is. When I search my mental food rolodex, this is the visual I will recall for the term from now on. Fresh, with a bit of chewiness to it, giving you all the more precious few moments to savor it in your mouth. The cheese and pickled veggies added a nice tartness to the overall flavor, and the speck was the ideal accent to add texture and the saltiness I love in a pasta dish like this (I benefited from an extra helping since Adrian passed on his!). Impeccable all together, with the whole being the sum of these delectable parts.

We splurged on dessert (I blame AB; he has a weakness for the sweet stuff). I made the tough choice, but went with my gut: Apple fritters with a Cinnamon Ice Cream Milk Shake. Again, the presentation was outstanding, and it taste was even better. Powdered sugar dashed atop of delicate stack of lightly fried apple rings, still warm inside. Next to it, a shot of frothy, creamy milk shake. So much fun finding all the ways to combine the two components on the plate: I dipped. I dunked. I bit. I sipped. Well worth the extra calories.

A memorable meal to say the least. I am in no position to argue that this is Philly's finest. I salute Marc Vetri for his vision, his integrity, and his honesty with his ingredients. It is clear that his is a clear and simple vision of Italian food... and it scores on all levels.

Main-Lining Italian Food

2010-12-20T21:38:00.002-05:00

Had a memorable food find this evening in West Chester, PA, in advance of my adventures @ QVC...

Teca is a wine bar first, for sure, but I discovered the food to be more than serviceable. Instead of dinner, I let the wine serve as the star, with a terrific Edna Valley Cab (Paso Robles) for starters. To compliment it, I sampled an assortment of Teca's charcuterie and cheeses: Prosciutto, Genoa Salami, and Coppa, paired with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Blue Cheese, Goat Cheese, Gorgonzola, Pecorino, Brie, and Taleggio. A fun and filling way to indulge in a decadent, yet responsible way, the way Italians do, far more frequently than us overindulgent Americans! There is something so simple and rustic, yet no less satisfying, about eating this way: meats, cheeses, crusty, toasty bread... it's a welcome break from the typical Italian resto experiences I can too easily find myself spiraling down into.

Don't get me wrong, I was tempted to gorge myself on any # of their entree items... but I held back, and feel all the better for it.

Kudos to Teca for showing me another quality stop on Main Line dining circuit...

Dutch Baby...GQ-Style

2010-12-15T09:31:00.003-05:00

No sooner do I return from the ATL extolling the blissful virtues of the Dutch Baby, then my most recent edition of GQ shows up with a feature on said delicacy...

Mine came courtesy of the Original Pancake House, but now, thanks to Adam Rapoport et al, we can all indulge in one of life's simplest, yet most satisfying creations. With apologies to Gentlemen's Quarterly, I cannot for the life of me find this feature on your web site, so I will recount the recipe forthwith. It is ridiculously easy to replicate, if not duplicate, what you've devoured in a restaurant:

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Melt 3 tbsp. butter in a 9 or 10 inch pie plate or ovenproof skillet...in the oven. Remove when melted.
Mix together 2 beaten eggs, 1/2c flour, 1/2c milk, 1 tsp. sugar, 1/4tsp. salt, pinch of nutmeg (optional).
Whisk and pour into hot skillet. Return to oven and bake 18-20 min. till puffy and evenly browned.
Remove and sprinkle with lemon juice and powdered sugar.

While on the topic, here is a link to Alan Richman's latest on what he considers the best burger in America. I, for one, must find an excuse/reason to get out to LA more often...

GQ's Burger of the Year

Easy Entertaining

2010-12-10T12:58:00.003-05:00

Can't wait to make this...so simple, yet you just know you'll get raves like you slaved in the kitchen for this one. Found it in the wife's Coastal Living mag, and thought how great this would be for holiday parties, etc...

Cheese Puffs

Combine 1/2 cup milk, 6 tbsp. unsalted butter, 1/4c water, 1/2 tsp. sea salt, dash of white pepper, dash of red pepper in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring until butter melts.

Add 3/4c all-purpose flour and 1/4 tsp. baking powder, stirring briskly until dough pulls away from sides of pan. Reduce heat to low; cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat; let cool 5 minutes.

Stir 3 large eggs into dough, 1 at a time, beating vigorously until fully incorporated. Set aside 2 tablespoons shredded Gruyere cheese for tops of puffs. Stir 3/4c cheese into dough.

Spoon dough by level tablespoonfuls onto parchment paper-lined baking sheets. Brush tops of puffs with 1 tablespoon milk, and sprinkle evenly with reserved 2 tablespoons cheese.

Bake at 400° for 18 to 20 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven; pierce the side of each puff with the tip of a sharp knife to allow steam to escape. Serve hot or warm.

Breakfast in EAT-lanta

2010-11-26T13:16:00.008-05:00

While everyone still has Thanksgiving on the brain... I am still recalling fond memories of a breakfast I enjoyed a scant few days ago, before turkey and stuffing dominated my taste buds. And while I felt a pang of regret for not paying a visit to my favorite breakfast spot in the ATL (oh, Flying Biscuit, how I still love thee), I was psyched for my first experience at the Original Pancake House...

I learned, actually, that the original Original is in Portland, Oregon, born in 1953 at the loving hands of Les Highet and Erma Hueneke. They now have over one hundred franchises from coast to coast, which have won local and national acclaim. The recipes demand only the very finest of ingredients, such as 93 score butter, pure 36% whipping cream, fresh grade AA eggs, hard wheat unbleached flour, and their own recipe sourdough starter. Their batters and sauces are made fresh in each restaurant’s kitchen. All of this TLC shines through, from the waitresses to the retro decor. This is a diner upon which all diner's should be measured...

I ordered big and broad, wanting to sample as much of their menu as possible. The signature of the OPH is their Dutch Baby, described by its originators as "an air filled delight oven baked to golden perfection and served with lemon, whipped butter and powdered sugar to create a mouthwatering blend." What an incredible combo! So light (a cross between a crepe and a pancake), so bright (loved the fresh-squeezed lemon juice), and just the right amount of decadent (butter, powdered sugar). It went faster than expected...but luckily, I still had room for more -- namely, my bacon pancakes. Need is say more? The balance of savory and sweet is right in my stomach's wheelhouse. If you've ever been pleasantly surprised by the happy accident that occurs on your plate when your maple syrup encroaches on your eggs and bacon... you know the joys of this dish. I'm honestly stunned that more breakfast joints don't offer this on their menus as a stand alone item...

And speaking of menus... the OPH's is extensive, if not overwhelmingly tempting. No fewer than 18 pancake offerings, plus waffles, and omelet variations, too, each one deserving of a taste.
The potato pancakes warrant special mention, as well. They're made flat, and although I prefer the crispy kind, derivative of hash browns, these were plenty satisfying.

Kudos to the Original Pancake House for keepin' it real, sticking with what works (and has for over 50 years), and earning a place in my heart... along with another bookmark as a place I will continue to visit on my many returns to the ATL...

Take Comfort in this Hollenberg Thanksgiving Tradition

2010-11-25T09:47:00.004-05:00

Gobble Gobble, Everyone!
I'm settling in with my extended family, in the mountains surrounding picturesque Lake Hartwell, Georgia, for our Thanksgiving feast. I have mixed feelings, to be honest, because this is one of the first times in my married life I will not be hosting the festivities. What I'm quickly realizing, however, is that it's not the location that matters most, it's the people you are with...and the food. Always, the food...

To that end, I have (forcefully) volunteered my services in helping prepare the meal. Specifically, my annual Thanksgiving Stuffing recipe, which I culled from the Vinoy Hotel over a decade ago. I feel like this year is a bit of a rite of passage for me and my stuffing, as this marks the first year I will be preparing it from memory -- no recipe on paper in sight (keep this in mind when scanning the directions below!). And it is also a fitting recipe for the company I'm keeping, seeing as how this dish has a distinctly Southern sensibility to it. If it's not too late for you to enjoy this today, rest assured it is easy and quick to create. If you find this and the moment has passed...I hope this becomes a tradition for your family next year, and for years to come...

Roasted Pecan Southern Comfort Corn Bread Stuffing

Prepare 2 boxes Jiffy Corn Mix, as directed on the box.
Saute an onion and 2 celery stalks in butter in the bottom of a stock pot, until softened.
Crumbled prepared corn bread into stock pot, and add approx. 2c chicken broth, until mixture is moistened completely.
Chop 1c pecans, season with a pinch (or two) of cayenne pepper, and toast (usually just a few minutes).
Add chopped pecans to mixture until combined.
Season with marjoram, salt & pepper.
In a small sauce pan, add 1c Southern Comfort. Light the alcohol to flame off in the pan.
Add SoCo to the stuffing until combined.

The spiciness of the peppered pecans mixes really nicely with the sweetness of the Southern Comfort, and it's all brought together in harmony in the corn bread base. Great balance of bigger flavors that stand out on what is typically a crowded Thanksgiving plate.

Enjoy, and Happy Thanksgiving!

Bour-Dining...

2010-11-19T22:53:00.002-05:00

Tonight was a night I was waiting for for quite some time. I held off getting Anthony Bourdain's latest screed, "Medium Raw," in hopes I would be able to meet the man when I made the purchase. I settled for seeing him, and it still didn't disappoint.

My wife and I just returned from An Evening With Anthony Bourdain, put on by the Vinoy Hotel. A "No Reservations" 3-course meal at their flagship resto, Marchand's, followed by a short jitney down the street to see the man himself throw down in front of a packed house.
The meal was good; classic French, presumable as a nod to his days at Les Halles in NYC.
The wife and I went went in divergent directions. She: French Onion Soup, Coq Au Vin & Pommes Puree, Chocolate Mousse. Moi: Frisee Aux Lardons (salad w/cubes of smoked bacon, Roquefort crouton, poached egg), Hanger Steak & Pomme Frites, Fresh Apple Tart w/ Vanilla Ice Cream. All the better for sharing! LOVED my salad (like refined breakfast with greens thrown in for good measure) as much as anything served. The steak was tender and the shallot sauce was deep and rich. While Jill didn't care as much for her soup, I benefited (as usual) from her smaller appetite, and really enjoyed the classic components (gooey cheese, tinge of sherry). Both desserts were prepared and presented beautifully.

It was with full bellies zoomed to our engagement with a man who I believe has the singular most interesting and honest voice in the TV Food universe. Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential" manifesto is 10 years old, but it's good to see that in the ensuing 10 years, the man himself may have mellowed, but this tiger certainly still has his stripes. He at one point admitted to "throwing away the leather jacket; the earring; the thumb ring... there are no cool dads!"... but he still has a fire in his belly and a fearless flair for sharing his pointed opinions. Perhaps that's why his new book title is so aptly, if not ironically, named. He's still raw; just more on the medium side now that he's staring down 50, and with a 3 1/2 year old daughter at home.

His routine was rehearsed (can't blame him for that), but it still came off as sincere and quintessentially Tony. He looked the part, in suede cowboy boots, dark jeans, blue shirt and blazer, and his profanity at times was never over the top, just seemingly in balance with a more laid-back disposition. He came out of the gates firing, immediately crushing Sandra Lee (give the people what they want), took shots at even his own network ("Why do we all really watch 'Man vs. Food'?... Because we want to see the guy kill himself!"), and later opined on how Americans would benefit from following his simple, yet apparently overlooked, travel laws: Be Gracious. Be Adventurous. Don't Eat Where Tourists Eat. I particularly appreciated his take on how to keep his child out of the clutches of "The King, the Clown, & The Colonel." Indeed, Mr. Bourdain is decidedly not a fan of fast food nation, especially as it pertains to the youth of America.

It's amazing to hear him recount how shockingly different his life is now versus a scant decade ago. Then, he was 44, cooking for a living, and had never seen beyond the myopic focus of whatever kitchen he was in, and the people who inhabited said kitchen. Now, he's been all over the world many times over, eating and drinking his way through fascinating journeys, recording it all for prosperity with a camera crew in tow.

The best job in the world? He readily admits he believes it is. And from listening to him tonight, I'm hard pressed to disagree...

Respect my Authoritaay!

2010-11-19T07:32:00.002-05:00

South Park's take on the Cooking Show...

2010-11-07T11:41:00.001-05:00

Holy S#*t! The Delta terminal @ LaGuardia is TOTALLY revamped and foodialicious! Pat LaFrieda burgers?! And it replaced BK!! Talk about an upgrade!

Philly Food & Wine

2010-10-30T18:21:00.002-04:00

Good times at the Philly Food & Wine Festival this weekend. I'll post pics once I get them all, but wanted to deliver on my promise of posting the recipe I demo'ed ASAP. Thanks to all the wonderful peeps in the crowd for turning out, and staying put. Following Aaron McCargo, Michael Voltaggio, and Fabio Viviani ain't exactly an enviable position for a rank amateur like myself, and the crowd that was there made life a whole lot easier and more enjoyable...

This recipe resonates with me for a couple of reasons: it's easy, tasty, and healthy. And it was the perfect thing to demonstrate on Halloween Eve, because of the "trick" of the squash posing as spaghetti!

Spaghetti Squash Casserole

Slice one large spaghetti squash lengthwise. Place cut sides down on a greased baking sheet and roast for approx. 45:00 in a 400 degree oven. Cool completely when done.
Meanwhile, cook 4 slices of bacon in a pan. Remove and drain to cool.
Dice an onion and add to same pan with bacon grease. Saute until soft. Set aside.
Grate 4 oz. Havarti cheese, 4 oz. Swiss cheese, and 2 oz. Romano cheese in a large bowl.
Chop the bacon and combine with 2c bread crumbs (I prefer Panko) and 1/3 of the cheese mixture. Set a side (this is your topping).
In another bowl, combine 1/4c stone ground mustard, 1/4c sour cream, 1/4c chopped parsley.
Scoop out the squash seeds from the cooled squash. Using a fork, scrape the insides of the squash halves, forming long strands, and add to the wet mixture. Mix completely. Season with salt & pepper.
Mix in the remaining 2/3 of the cheese mixture to the squash mixture. Spread in a 9x13 greased casserole dish.
Top with the bread crumb/bacon/cheese mixture.
Bake in a 350 degree oven for approx. 25:00 until golden brown, then broil and additional 2-3 minutes until the cheeses bubbles and the top is crispy.

My demo went pretty well (there were no leftovers!)... and I hope this dish serves you and yours well in your home...

Squash This!

2010-10-29T13:32:00.004-04:00

It's that time of year for recipes. The time of year where the glorious Gourd takes center stage, in its manifold forms: pumpkin, acorn, and, my personal fave, spaghetti. In fact, I will be posting my Spaghetti Squash Casserole recipe I will be demo'ing @ the Philadelphia Food & Wine Festival shortly. But this post is dedicated to the colorful, popular, if not sometimes vexing butternut variety. A name that congers cozy, comfort food... but can be a real witch to deal with, if ya know what I mean.

I found this recipe from CHOW to be pretty simple to prepare. I enjoy a chunky texture to my pastas, and this one certainly had that, but I would recommend taking your with the squash in the saute pan to make sure they're nice and tender. And I chose egg noodles, because the creamy sauce clings to them nicely...

Egg Noodles with Butternut Squash & Thyme Cream Sauce

Ingredients
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 pound butternut squash, peeled and cut into medium dice
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the egg noodles until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, garlic, and salt and sauté until the vegetables have softened, about 5 minutes.
Add the squash, thyme, and pepper and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the squash is starting to brown and just gives way when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes.
Pour in the cream, stir to coat the vegetables, and bring to a boil. Stir in the cheese and simmer for 2 minutes.
Transfer the pasta directly into the sauce. Remove the pasta and sauce from heat and toss with tongs to coat the pasta.
Add the reserved pasta water by the tablespoon to reach the desired sauce consistency. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

The Cool Kids Call it CoMo

2010-10-29T12:28:00.003-04:00

Spent most of the last week in Columbia, Missouri -- or CoMo, as it's known to the locals. I was there shooting a pilot for a top-rated cable network, but the rest of the details are to remain under wraps for the time being. Rest assured I will be shouting it from the rooftops once I get clearance, Clarence... but I digress...

Two eating experiences I can share with you, amidst 5 days of basically eating to survive, not indulge. Our 12-14 hour days permitted only 1 memorable restaurant endeavor, and we were fortunate to have enough time to sit down for a proper lunch one day, as well...

The Wine Cellar Bistro of Columbia, Missouri, boasts over 1000 bottles in their collection, and the interior promotes exactly that. Wine bottles, crate tops, racks, pictures and more are displayed seemingly everywhere. I enjoyed a glass of Layer Cake Shiraz before my meal. Very enjoyable Australian wine, with dark berries and, aptly, a hint of chocolate on the back end as well. My salad was impressive in portion size and ingredients. Nice chunks of mozzarella, hearty tomatoes, and oranges, which was a first for me with this type of salad. For my main course, I couldn't resist the Chicken and Pancetta Ravioli, which came with a rich and creamy sauce dotted with pine nuts. Nice layers of flavor and certainly tasted freshly made. It was a quality meal to start our production schedule...

The other shout out goes to what is seemingly the unanimous pick for Best Pizza in CoMo: Shakespeare's. This, straight from the web site: "We make fresh dough, on site, several times a day. We start with Stanislaus pizza sauce - it's made from tomatoes, not concentrate - and add some of our own spices. We use high grade provolone that's aged just right, and shredded, not diced... because it makes a difference."
And while I will respectfully resist any over-the-top raves, I will say the whole wheat crust was a nice consistency, and the toppings were plentiful. The best I've eaten? Not close. But I can see why the denizens of Columbia would be proud. This is a distinctly local joint, which is proud to stay just that. A big fish in a small pond, you may say (I just did!). Every college town has one; this is simply where you get your pizza if you are a student at University of Missouri...

So, there ya have it. Two places to hit up if you ever find yourself smack dab in between St. Louis and Kansas City.

Aloha Means, Congrats!

2010-10-20T13:04:00.002-04:00

What a treat last night... my wife and I planned on stopping in to Roy's to pay our respects for his 10th Anniversary celebration in Tampa. What was intended as a brief 'hello' and a quick drink turned into an incredible eating experience. Roy Yamaguchi, in his inimitable fashion, was more than gracious as the host. He works the room like a champ, and even though his amiable and talented staff will tell you he begrudgingly spends most of his time in the front of the house these days, the menu on this night serves notice that the guy still has the flair to create spectacular food in all its fusion glory...

We were first presented with a sample of Yellowfin Tuna with a crushed pistachio & rice cracker crust, which was like a perfect meld of his typically amazing sesame seared ahi tuna and a more substantial tuna steak. It rested on top of a butternut and leek pave which you could have sopped up by itself! Next to it on the plate was a Napa Cabbage pillow filled with Duck Confit, Bok Choy, & a Foie Gras ganache. Holy Taste Sensations, Bat Man! So many different, distinct flavors... just amazing.

Next came a sampling of two hearty offerings: first, sliced Wagyu Beef with a Morel & Shitake Ragout, and Porcini Buerre Blanc, served with a Parmesan Yukon Gold Mash. The beef was rich and the mushrooms the perfect complement, bordering on decadent. Next... my first time tasting Veal Cheeks. It was served Marsala style, atop a Poblano Mash. Wow! You could sense this was a bit of a stretch outside of Roy's comfort zone, but that is when a chef like Roy is at his best. His excitement about these components came through in the dish itself. Outstanding...

And just when we thought the joy ride was over... dessert! An light, airy version of Pumpkin Cheesecake with a moist graham cracker crust and a (pleasantly surprising) side of glazed, plump cranberries to add a touch of tartness to the plate. What a way to end a meal.

My thanks, as always, to one of the people I hold in highest esteem in the business. Roy Yamaguchi is a testament to the fact that talent can get you where you dream of going, but equal measures of kindness will keep you there, and take you farther even... the Aloha spirit is alive and well at Roy's!

Good Eats Good Times on the Gulf Shores

2010-10-20T12:32:00.007-04:00

Spent last weekend in Orange Beach, AL, an area hit hard by the BP oil spill. It's a gorgeous part of the country most of us (myself included) wouldn't ever know about, and I'm glad I had the opportunity to visit. They suffered greatly from the oil spill, but it was heartening to see how well they're rebounding. Much like the other Gulf Shores spots, it most reminded me of Destin, FL. In fact, Orange Beach sits almost precisely on the state line dividing Alabama and Florida...

Which is why and where there exists, in all its ply-wooded glory, a place called FloraBama. It stands not only as a symbol of the festive atmosphere typical of a sun-drenched, white-sand, vacation destination, but also as a a beacon of resiliency of the local population. Whatever Mother Nature has thrown her way, the FloraBama has endured; prospered, even. It's original coordinates situated quite literally on the state line that divides the Deep South, FloraBama has been forced to shift its moorings through the years. But you can sense its "bend, don't break" attitude: Katrina destroys part of the bar? Build another room. Tropical storms sweep through? Build up and out! It's now a sprawling treehouse-like structure, with additions slapped on like so many Legos or Tinker Toys sets.

Being that my TV crew and I were finished shooting for the day, we treated ourselves to a famous FloraBama Bushwacker, which was accurately described by a local patron as "a frozen Yoo Hoo with alcohol." It was sweet, and had a distinct bite of vodka in every sip, all the way down. A thirst-quenching, buzz-inducing, sweet-tooth-satisfying treat, for sure...

Two shout-outs for meals I enjoyed during my stay in Orange Beach. First was a stellar dinner of local seafood at Cobalt, where I enjoyed an appetizer of Bayou la Batre Crab Claws (sauteed in fresh tomatoes and basil with a garlic butter sauce) as well as a delicious piece of blackened Wahoo. The location cannot be beat: floor to ceiling windows provide a sweeping view of the Gulf. A teriffic spot that's equal parts dressed-up and dressed-down...

My final morning, always on the hunt for a good breakfast recommendation, I found Duck's Diner and filled my belly with exactly what I was looking for: a good, down-home breakfast. I ordered Jacob's Special: eggs (medium) over crispy corned beef hash with a side of cheese grits. Southern hospitality is in full effect at Duck's, as I got to know my server, Justin, almost instantaneously (without even asking to). Luckily, his service was as fast as his Southern drawl!

Take a seat at the chef's counter for front-row dining - St. Petersburg Times

2010-10-15T05:26:00.000-04:00

Take a seat at the chef's counter for front-row dining - St. Petersburg Times

Saturday Morning Market

2010-10-10T21:37:00.008-04:00

Now that my local (St. Pete, FL) Saturday Morning Market is open, after another long, hot summer, all is right with the world once again. There's a certain lightness of being I experience knowing that from October-May, I can count on this constant in my life.

This past weekend, I was thrilled to see it bigger and more buzzworthy than ever...

There are a couple of booths we always hit up: the kids especially love Sweet Caroline's, for their ginormous chocolate chip cookies. I personally favor their Glorious Morning muffins, which is a hodge podge of hearty, healthy ingredients, like carrot cake, raisins, nuts, and the like.

My wife and I always enjoy the breakfasts served up courtesy of Uhuru Breakfast Cafe (sans political innuendo, thank you) -- huge tortillas folded around generous amounts of eggs, cheese, potatoes, peppers and onions.

Always a fun indulgence is Mot-sa-pie: Hot and cheesy, warm and chewy, Hispanic in origin, it's a yummy, grilled cornmeal pancake with melty mozzarella cheese inside. Add a slice of ham for our "deluxe Mot-sa-pie." Traditionally served with powdered sugar on top.

But, at the risk of burying the lead here, I sampled two of the newer vendors at the Market this time around: couldn't pass up the booth for Brooklyn Knish. I was really impressed with their wide selection of knishes: no fewer than 17 on the menu! As I approached, I'd prepped my taste buds for an original potato variety, but was swayed when I spotted the Sweet Potato Pumpkin Spice version beckoning me.

Bonnie Wachtler and her hubby run the joint, and had mini-steamers on hand to make the knishes nice and warm and moist. I enjoyed my rather eccentric order, but can't wait to get back there for an "original" ... or maybe and original with bacon... or I could go for the one with corned beef... either way, any way, mission accomplished in the way of "taking me back home to New York"...

Next up, we happened upon an unassuming, classic-looking Popsicle cart. What I came to quickly discover, though, was Pop Craft is anything but.

I've experienced authentic paletas before (in Nashville, at an award-winning outpost, aptly called Las Paletas), so I was psyched to see these Mexican treats served up locally. Paletas, for the uninitiated, are frozen bars, chock-full of chunks of fresh fruit and available in a hypnotizing array of colors and clear, not-too-sweet flavors. This Sarasota-based company boasts "all natural artisan Popsicles," and their flavors on-hand made our tongues wag just reading the chalk-drawn menu. The kiddies ordered the Strawberry-Lemon. I couldn't resist the Coconut Cream. Both were dynamite! Incredible texture; so refreshing. And an extra benefit of these au natural creations: they don't melt as messy as store-bought kinds!

All in all, a great morning spent with the family in a fun environment, and a fantastic way to support local growers and businesses, too.

Can't wait 'til next Saturday...

Healthy Tailgating

2010-10-08T13:04:00.004-04:00

Just shot a cooking demo for the syndicated TV show, "Daytime." I brought them this recipe for Stuffed Turkey Burgers, which I've used for a while now, and really enjoy. I especially like it for tailgating, because

a) no untensils required,

b) the toppings are inside the burger...less mess!, and

c) it fills your belly and your tank!

I like to tweak this one by preparing the turkey as if it's meatloaf: add bread crumbs and garlic to the burgers to get some extra flavor inside, along with the peppers and cheese...

The Sophisticated Scallop

2010-10-07T14:26:00.006-04:00

I had the pleasure of befriending a very talented chef/baker/caterer extraordinaire, Scott Bishop, while working at a Food & Wine Festival in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. Scott was, during that weekend, putting out seriously copious amounts of food to satisfy the masses, on hand to see cooking demos from the likes of Guy Fieri, Aaron McCargo, Jr, and Fabio Viviani. If you're ever in Hilton Head, you gotta look him up!

Here, Chef Scott is kind enough to regale us with a simple and savory dish, that pays tribute to a South Carolinian staple, the Scallop.

SCALLOPS AND THYME RAVIOLI w/ Buerre Blanc

Cut appx 2 doz dry pack Sea Scallops into small dice; season with salt and pepper

Add 2 tbsp. olive oil and 4 thyme sprigs

Stir and let sit appx 10-15 mins.

Fill 60 wonton wrappers with 3/4 tsp. of Scallop filling, seal with egg wash, trim excess wrapper to make raviolis

Poach Ravioli in approx. 1 qt. fish stock (or clam juice) appx 1 min (or until they float)

Drain and drizzle buerre blanc sauce (see below) over and serve immediately

Beurre blanc, or white butter, is a classic and delicious French wine and butter sauce. Versatile and simple to make, beurre blanc has a light texture and rich flavor that goes great with different types of seafood.

Mince one shallot and place in a medium saucepan with 1/4c white wine and 1/4c white wine vinegar.

While gently stirring, cook over medium heat until the mixture has been reduced to the equivalent of two tablespoons. This should take about six minutes. Turn down the heat and allow the mixture to cool a little bit before adding the next ingredient.

Slice a stick of butter into 1/2 inch cubes. With the burner now on low heat, add a few of these butter cubes at a time and whisk them into the shallot/wine/vinegar reduction you have made. Each batch of butter cubes should be pretty much emulsified before adding the next batch.

Chop 1 tbsp. Italian parsley.

Add the chopped parsley, as well as a dash of salt and white pepper and stir until well blended. This will yield approximately 1/2 cup of Beurre Blanc sauce.

Finally, Faustina!

2010-09-29T16:34:00.009-04:00

This is the third in my recent trifecta of "A Day in New York" culinary excursions...

My admiration for, and friendship with, Scott Conant has been well-documented in the annals of this blog. Every meal at Scarpetta is a revelation at best, and memorable at worst. And so it was, the other night, that I finally, begrudgingly, left Scarpetta behind, if just for one night on my short stay in Manhattan. The consolation, of course, was that I was not going far, figuratively or literally, en route to Conant's other NYC outpost, Faustina...
The space @ the Cooper Square Hotel is hip and sleek and sexy. The clientele seemed distinctly European...but I digress. I wasn't there to people watch.
I met some old friends for dinner, and we were immediately treated to two items from the "Bread & Olives" portion of the menu (Scott is nothing if not generous). I was ambivalent to the Olives, Warmed & Herbed, but couldn't wait to try the Grilled Ciabatta with a Poached Duck Egg Fonduta (see the bottom of this post for recipe). Both plates arrived very rustic-looking, which shows how Scott accomplishes his vision of "Alta Cucina meets Cucina Rustica," the food philosophy he once explained to me. This is fine dining, but it is decidedly not stuffy. The olive dish was as good as I've ever experienced olives; the delicately crunchy breading and herbs surrounding it a fine balance to the saltiness of the olives themselves. The shining star on the table, however, was undoubtedly the duck egg fonduta. Big hunks of crusty bread, gorgeous grill marks all over. The perfect accomplice to the luscious, cheesy fontina mixture next to it. And once the yolk, immersed in the liquefied cheese, was punctured, all the better. Ironically, this is why Scott calls his flagship Scarpetta -- because he wants his customers to sop up the goodness on the plate (it's an old Italian slang saying) -- and that is exactly what we did, and with brio! I honestly could have had four courses of just that...
Next for me was Oven Roasted Tomatoes with Proscuitto Cotto, and Oil-Cured Olives (so much for not being an olive fan), from his "Antipasti della Fattoria" selections.
I knew I would tear through this small plate, as tomatoes and prosciutto are among my favorite things to cook with and eat, especially together. This style of prosciutto was new for me, though. It had more of the texture of ham, and not quite the smokiness I was used to. It was delicioso, nonetheless.
I then couldn't resist the "Appetizer" offering of Short Ribs, Spaetzle, & Horseradish. This was a surprise offering for me, as I wouldn't associate this with Italian cuisine a la Conant, but hey, give the guy points for an expanding repertoire. I've become a big fan of spaetzle in the past year, and his was moist and scrumptious, as it propped up the tender, medium-rare short rib medallions.
My entree was the Roasted Halibut with Snap Peas, Organic Radish & Truffle. The fish was perfectly cooked and simply seasoned; the snap peas were firm in texture, almost like beans. It was an entree that begged for you partake in every component with each mouthful, and I was happy to oblige.
Scott once again outdid himself by delivering us a gratis dessert, Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta, with Rhubarb-Strawberry Compote & Yogurt Sorbetto. This was the best panna cotta I've ever had, so creamy & light, yet still bursting with flavor and freshness. We added on the Gianduia-Banana Tart, with Chocolate-Caramel Mousse, & Mocha Ice Cream. Sinfully good, yet not overly filling, which is a noticed hallmark of Conant desserts. The gianduia, I learned, is an Italian chocolate hazelnut paste; what us mere mortals would refer to a Nutella. And I would bet my mortgage that ice cream was made in-house (if you've seen Scott question the participants on his "24-hour Restaurant Battle" episodes, you'll know what I mean!)...
After all that food; the plentiful wine (and port), and the great friends on hand, you could understand my penchant for overzealously raving about my time at Faustina. But what I've come to learn about Scott and his food is that he is not satisfied with the status quo. Yes, he will always keep certian favorites on the menu -- why mess with success? But he is always looking for new and exciting things to add, and it's those little surprises, that show up in a subtle yet substantial way, that keep customers like me appreciating his passionate efforts... and keep us coming back again and again.
Is it Scarpetta? No. But Scott never intended it to be.
He's ok with that.
And clearly, so am I...

Duck Egg with Fontina Fonduta and Grilled Ciabatta
Serves 4

Ingredients
For the fonduta
2 oz fontina cheese, semi-soft, not the aged
3 oz milk
1 tsp chopped preserved black truffles
1 tsp truffle oil
salt

1. Cut the fontina in to bite size pieces and place in a blender.
2. Add the truffles and a little salt.
3. Bring the milk to a boil and add to the blender. Puree the mixture until smooth and the cheese is melted.
4. Slowly add the truffle oil to the blender.
5. Adjust seasoning if needed.

For the egg
2 ea duck eggs (4 ea if you don’t want to share)
Water
1 Tbsp white vinegar
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
pinch Maldon sea salt

1. Bring the water to a boil and add the vinegar.
2. Poach the duck eggs in the liquid until just set.
3. Transfer the eggs to small bowls and ladle 2 oz of the fontina fonduta over the egg.
4. Drizzle a little extra virgin olive oil over the egg and finish with some sea salt

For the bread
1 ea large ciabatta loaf
extra virgin olive oil

1. Cut the ciabatta in to thick slices about 1 inch thick.
2. Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil.
3. Grill or broil until crispy and slightly charred.

A Trip to Eataly

2010-09-28T22:07:00.014-04:00

This amounts to either the biggest tease I've pulled on myself, or the most useless post this blog has seen. Why? Because I went to Eataly... AND I DIDN'T EAT ANYTHING. Not a damn thing. Not one morsel. Let me defend my heinous actions...

I was not anticipating having any time to pay my first visit to this emporium of everything Italian, courtesy of Batali & Bastianich. And in between my meetings, I had bookended two amazing meals, one of which was still lovingly digesting in my stomach (that being lunch, courtesy of David Burke Town House... see previous post). Needless to say, I was stuffed to the gills, and knowing I had an Italian fest approaching in a mere 2 hours (stay tuned for details), I made the dreadfully painful decision to eat with my eyes... and just window shop. So, I did what I normally don't do too often on this blog: I took lots of pictures!

They, of course, don't do the space, or the sundries, any justice whatsoever. This place is an absolute Italian wonderland of food, products, and more. At first, it recalled an Italian culinary version of Ikea, with it's massive, maze-like layout. But, unlike Ikea, the more lost you get in Eataly, the better. Wander in, and you're greeted by a hallway jammed with fresh veggies and fruits. Yes, I ogled the already-famous "Vegetable Butcher," who stands prepared to prep your veggies any way you like it. To the left, there's cookware and other accessories. Straight back, you get into the serious eats: meats, cheeses, wines, breads, pizzas & fish of all sorts and varieties. Each station has its own nook; its own gathering spot. What's amazing is, as jam-packed as this place looks from a bird's-eye view, it doesn't feel that way when you walk the floor. It's more like a big open air market, just without the blue skies and sunshine.

Eataly invites you to stroll, to slow down, to take your time...which I found from my one sojourn to Italy years ago, is the Italian way of life... especially when it comes to food.
I was so impressed with the authenticity of everything. Clearly, Batali & Co. accomplished what they set out to do.

In the end, I chalk this up to a recon mission: I staked out the floor plan, mapped out my mission, and strategized my game plan. Next time...ohhhh, next time... nothing edible will be safe from my grasp.

Willy Wonka Meets Fine Dining

2010-09-28T19:35:00.007-04:00

Had a most memorable lunch @ David Burke Town House. The moment I stepped out of the dreary, drizzly New York City weather, and into the bright, welcoming space (on E. 61st between Lex and Park) I knew I was about to experience something I never had before. The decor was colorful and eclectic, approaching technicolor, against the stark white walls. There was a chandelier of inverted, frosted wine glasses; multicolored, blown-glass balloons; and artwork that literally glowed...turns out theses touches are the ideal visual appetizer to what I was about to taste... a veritable Willy Wonka Tasting Room come to life...

Chef Burke himself is a larger-than-life man with a welcoming personality, but his largess belies the deft, skillful touches he displays on his plates. The food is so glorious to look at and study, it's as gorgeous as the interior design.

I couldn't help myself (shock of all shocks, I know) and ordered one of the available prix fixe options for lunch . My first choice was the Lobster Bisque. Three delicate lobster claws wrapped in a dumpling, with a tomato-based bisque poured on top at the table. There were kernels of fresh corn added to the mix. Shortly after, a surprise (a recurring theme of a Town House meal, I come to find). Chef was kind enough to send out a "gift" of his Lamb Steak Salad; three beautifully prepared slices of succulent lamb, mounted and balanced atop a disc of quinoa that looked like it had been injected with an iridescent, golden gelatin. Subtley spicy, texture somewhere in between fish roe and cous cous, and a fantastic combination paired together. My Black Angus Burger arrived next, perfectly cooked medium-rare on a spongy, buttery Brioche bun. The accompanying Garlic & Lemon French Fries were also a pleasingly visual shock. I'd never seen fries that yellow...almost neon! Turns out, the reason they abstain this color is because of the curry oil used in the frying process. They were crispy outside, tender inside. Not the slightest hint of oil to the touch. And finally, a Warm & Crisp Apple Tart with homemade Dulche de Leche Ice Cream, and a dried apple chip on top that resembled a flower blossom. The waiter finished off the presentation with a healthy drizzle of Cider Caramel Sauce. The tart was exactly as advertised; the tart itself was flaky and dense. The ice cream was sinful, and held up to the pastry.

From the outset, it's easy to discern that Burke is a master at the playful elements that add artistry to the food he prepares. I can just picture him with a gleam in his glasses as he conceives, and then constructs, his consistently wondrous dishes. Truth is, it would all be folly if the taste didn't live up, but it does, in spades. And while it's almost a shame to see the food disappear from your plate, bite by bite, it's sweet solace when it hits your palette. Burke pushes the boundaries of what you can create in a kitchen. And kudos to Exec Chef Sylvain Dilpique and Pastry Chef Jennifer Domanski for carrying out Chef Burke's visions of grandeur and splendor on the plate.

All he's missing is the purple velour top hat & tails...

Ya Never Know Who You're Gonna Run Into...

2010-09-26T17:18:00.004-04:00

Today was a fun day for me. I was @ QVC, and had a couple of fun "green room run-ins"...

First, I got to meet Tyler Florence, whose career I've admired from afar for a while. He makes it look so easy on his shows, which, as anyone who knows anything about TV demonstrations (especially cooking demos) knows is not an easy feat. That, plus his foods always looks gorgeous (important on TV, no?) and accessible: not too fancy, but always impressive. He turned out to be the real deal. He was there to intro his new cookbook, Tyler Florence Family Meal, which, by the way, is really great looking. I am an admitted cook book addict (I have one of his already), but this one is seriously top notch. The highest praise I can give it, or any book of its ilk, is that I wanted to eat the book! The pictures are sensational (he puts his family front and center -- points for that!), the layout makes you feel like you're reading a book, not searching for recipes, and speaking of recipes, it's loaded with good ones, all with a comfort food bent (150 in all). It's definitely one I will add to my collection.
Best of all, TF turned out to be as genuine as his on-camera persona. We hung out for a while, talking food and restaurants, and he gave me some really useful and sage feedback on a TV project I'm working on... greatly appreciated...

Then, I re-connected with a cooking TV legend, who I worked with a few years back @ HSN. The venerable Mr. Food, Art Ginsburg, is still going strong, and only getting stronger. Quite an inspiration. He is the originator of bringing simple, tasty recipes from your TV to your kitchen. 30 years in, and Mr. Food's as popular, and energetic, as ever! I was happy to learn he now has an e-newsletter that will deliver his recipes to your inbox. I signed on immediately. You should, too!

My plan is to learn from guys like Tyler and Art as I build my TV cooking career. They have more in common than you would initially think, being from different generations, but the one thing they share, which I do my best to emulate: they make you want to watch, and they make you want to cook...

Tilapia with Peppers & Pecans

2010-09-24T10:48:00.002-04:00

Made this fish dish the other night and it was super simple and really great-tasting. My wife and I are both big sauce-lovers, so this was a bit of a departure for us, but the result was a really nice balance of flavors -- sweet &spicy...

Tilapia with Peppers & Pecans

Coat 4 tilapia fillets with 3/4c salted, all-purpose flour
Melt 3 tbsp. butter in a large skillet
Saute the fish about 3-4 on both sides, until golden brown and flaky. Set aside and keep warm.
In same pan, melt another 3 tbsp. butter. Add 1 tbsp. brown sugar, 1/2c chopped pecans, 1c sweet roasted red peppers, sliced, and a pinch of cayenne pepper.
Stir until pecans are toasted and peppers are soft. Squeeze juice of 1 small lime in pan.
Spoon mixture over fish and serve immediately.

Enjoy!

Fun With Gnocchi!

2010-09-22T13:39:00.004-04:00

This is the second time in almost as many weeks that I've channelled my inner Italian Grandma (call me Nonna) in the kitchen, and made the fam a new recipe with my beloved Gnocchi. This time, however, the gnocchi was not the traditional potato-based variety; its main component was ricotta. This, together with some yellow squash and zucchini (sauteed in olive oil, salt & pepper, some onion and garlic powder, and finished with a healthy splash of balsamic vinegar), as well as nice glass of Pinot Grigio, made for a memorable Tuesday night. Mangia!

NOTE: This recipe claimed 8 servings... my wife and I finished the whole thing ourselves!!

Ricotta Gnocchi

In a large bowl, combine 1 1/2c ricotta (sheep's milk recommended) with 2 egg yolks & 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

Add 1c all-purpose flour and stir until soft and sticky dough forms.

Wrap in plastic and rest for 30:00 (the dough, not you!)

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into two ropes that are each about 1" diameter.

Cut into 1/2" pieces with a lightly floured knife.

Add the gnocchi, and cook until they rise to the surface, then simmer until firm (approx. 2 more minutes).

Transfer to a bowl of iced water with a slotted spoon to stop the cooking process.

Drain and gently pat dry.

Melt 4 tbsp. unsalted butter in a large nonstick skillet. Add the gnocchi and cook over high heat, turning the gnocchi until golden brown (approx. 4-5 minutes).

Serve right away by themselves, or with a tomato sauce.

Rigatoni with Sausage, Spinach, & Goat Cheese, by Scott Conant

2010-09-21T13:12:00.006-04:00

There are few chefs in the world hotter than Scott Conant right now. In the span of 3 years, Scott has realized his dream restaurant, conquered multiple cities, garnered rave reviews at every turn, and gets more TV time than, well... me! All that, and, oh by the way, he got married and had his first child in that span, too. Not bad for a kid from Connecticut!

I met Scott just prior to this whirlwind of success, when we worked together on TV. He was still getting his "TV legs" about him then, but he certainly knew his way around a kitchen. I vividly recall him mapping out his career arc for me -- on a cocktail napkin! -- over hamburgers and white wine one night. And ya know what? It all came true. In seemingly no time. Good things happen to good people, and this is evidence of that statement.

Scarpetta NYC was a hit from opening night, and Scott's simple yet refined approach to Italian cuisine is a benchmark for accessible, fine dining. The Scarpetta brand now extends to Miami, Toronto, Beverly Hills, and there's an increasing presence in Las Vegas, as well.

On the media side, Scott's got a hit show on Food Network, "24 Hour Restaurant Battle," which just completed season #1, and he's a recurring guest judge on "Chopped" (he, of the now-famous "I hate raw red onions on my plate" screed!). He was just featured last night on the network's "10 Best" special, praising his spaghetti with tomato sauce as one of the country's best comfort foods. Not surprisingly, I wholeheartedly concur.

Scott was kind enough to respond instantly, when I asked him for a dish all of us could make in our homes, in hopes of capturing a bit of that Scarpetta magic (thanks, too, Irene!). I'm sure Scott would say, "Use fresh ingredients, and you can't mess this dish up. It's very straightforward." Easy for him to say, right?! But it's true, for one of the most important things I've learned from Scott is that simple and straightforward can result in sophisticated and sensational...

Cheers!

Rigatoni with Sausage, Spinach, and Goat Cheese

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
¾ pound Italian sweet sausage or a combination of sweet and spicy, casings removed
¾ pounds of rigatoni
salt to taste
4 ounces spinach, well washed and dried and coarsely chopped (about 2 cups)
½ pint cherry or grape tomatoes
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sauté until it is tender and begins to color, 10 minutes. Crumble the sausage into the pan, increase the heat to medium-high, and fully cook the sausage.

Cook the rigatoni until just shy of al dente. Before draining, reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water.

Add the spinach and tomatoes and some of the pasta cooking liquid to the sausage and cook, tossing, until the spinach has wilted. Add the pasta, half the reserved cooking liquid, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and goat cheese. Toss well and lightly smash the tomatoes. Add a bit more of the cooking liquid of needed and serve sprinkled with parsley, if you like.

Serves 4.

The Sub (Gold) Standard

2010-09-20T10:23:00.004-04:00

Found myself in Atlantic City, NJ, this past weekend, home of (sometimes) rundown casino hotels, (mostly) shmaltzy boardwalk sites... and one of the finest sub shops this country has seen. White House Sub Shop has been on my radar for quite some time, ever since my sister told me her well-travelled and well-connected neighbor, Stan, has them shipped to his house in Maryland for the occasional fix. I'd heard they were that good. Now I know...

I brought my production crew with me, and none of us knew what to expect. A good first omen: the parking gods were smiling on us, as we found an open spot virtually right in front of White House, which sits on the corner of Mississippi and Arctic Avenues (Yes, you feel like you're living inside a game of Monopoly when you travel the streets of AC). The second sign of good things to come: Only a 10-minute wait to be seated. This is a minor miracle, considering this joint been around for 60+ years, and no on seems to mind waiting 2-3x that long on a regular business lunch hour.

The exterior looks just about the same as it has since Anthony Basile and his Aunt Basilia and Uncle Fritz Sacco in 1946. You feel like you're walking into a sepia-toned photograph from the World War II era as you join the cramped que inside the door.

There's always a line of people picking up their subs to go, but we wanted the whole White House Experience, so we waited a bit longer to be seated. Like I said, the short downtime was worth it...
While my comrades went with the Regular Italian, I felt compelled to invest in the White House Special, although we weren't sure how it differed from the Italian, other than the fact that it boasted "Extra Salami." Now, here's where I can use this forum as an instructional guide for anyone who reads this and cares to visit White House: Their "halves" and "wholes" ate DOUBLE what any other shop's are. If you've ever picked up a loaf of Italian or Cuban bread from a bakery...you know what you're getting yourself into when you order a "whole," which, of course, is what I did. It was literally TWO FEET worth of (Extra) Salami, Ham, Cappacolla, and Provolone, dressed with shredded lettuce, tomatoes marinated in oil and vinegar. The bread was super fresh: just crusty and hearty enough on the outside; still soft and spongy inside. I can only guess they get their breads from the formidable Formica Bros. Bakery, located right across the street. Philadelphians and the like always boast it's the bread that makes the real difference in their Cheese Steaks and such... and the Formica Family has a big say in that...

The meats were as fresh cut and delicious as they were abundant. You almost have to eat a good amount of the meat portion before even getting the bread itself! Yes, what you see the the right is ONE SANDWICH!!

(take that, Subway!)

NOTE: White House is a no-frills place, and they serve their food with a hasty smile, righteous speed, and a healthy dose of New Jersey attitude on the side. Ask for pickles or mayo at your own risk -- they don't do either.

So, I check another must-visit food destination off my list, and if you are ever in the South Jersey/Philly area, you should do the same.

Bravo, Bella Brava!

2010-09-15T22:02:00.006-04:00

The missus and I hit up the updated, hipper, more location-friendly incarnation of Bella Brava tonight, and the experience matched the unmatched real estate it now occupies in downtown St. Pete.

First off, the menu has changed as much as the decor. There's a much more minimalist vibe in the looks of the place, as well as the food. Gone are the fancy shmancy offerings for the eyes and the palette. Instead, it's somewhat of a stripped down, honest-to-goodness, authentic Trattoria experience. While it is still sleek and sexy outside and in, the menu and the wait staff make you feel...comfortable.

My biggest problem, to be honest, was what to order. There is just about everything you'd want from a classic Italian place. Luckily, we had the luxury of a gift card (thanks Linda, Darin, & Theresa!) and a coupon to boot, so we were livin' large tonight!

We ordered a bottle of their wine special -- an Oregon Pinot, RouteStock. It was well-balanced and zesty, and got better as the meal progressed. Predictably, for me, I went traditional with my order, which is always my lithmus test for Italian places the first time around. Caprese Salad, Toscana Pizza (mushrooms, garlic, smoked mozzarella, goat cheese) to share, Trattoria Chicken Parmesan (with prosciutto and fontina), and marscapone mashed potatoes as a side.

The pizza was perfection. Great crust, perfectly melted cheeses and balanced toppings. The salad was fresh and bright, with just the right amount of salt and pepper to compliment the tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. And, while I've had better chicken parm, I recognize I'm a bit of a snob when it comes to this dish, and respect them for putting their unique spin on it. Outside of the fact that I can't wait to sample other items on the menu, I would not hesitate to order this again.

Then, to our delight and surprise, our kind and knowledgeable waiter, Tom, informed us that the manager, Ryan, had directed him to comp us a dessert. Little did we expect it to be an entire platter of all the desserts they offer! Cheesecake, walnut brownies, tiramisu, panna cotta... it was all there... an orgy of sweets! We did our very best to indulge, but in the end, we surrendered to a full bag of leftovers. Bully for me, since I know I'll be the one who gets to enjoy them tomorrow!

The one thing that stood out to me, in the end, was that all of the menu items, including the ones we devoured, were repeatable. I mean, they tasted sufficiently freshly made, but I could already envision the entrepreneurial wheels turning, and other Bella Bravas sprouting up like other franchise forefathers before it (read: Bonefish Grill). The dishes are well-balanced, well-conceived, and well-executed. And if that does happen, all the power to 'em.

I just hope our own Bella Brava on Beach Drive doesn't forget where it came from...

It's Good to Be a "Nit-" Picker In This Case

2010-09-15T12:41:00.005-04:00

A few things to buzz about in my adopted hometown of St. Petersburg. If you're a local, get on it! If you're looking for a place to visit... St. Pete is quickly becoming a food destination...

First up... an older place that's a new find for me. Thanks to my fellow foodie, Chris, for turning me on to Nitally's (http://www.thaifoodtogo.net/), a Thai-Mex joint that now has an established home and working hours on 25th and Central. If you like it hot... this is your kinda place! The fact thery call themselves a Thai Coffee House is more than a bit misleading. They've been doing their cultish thing @ St. Pete's Saturday Morning Market for a while, but discovering their full menu was a revelation for me. I like Thai food. I really like Mexican. But Nit & Ally (the couple -- hence, the name) combine the two and pull it off with authenticity and attitude. I loved my Panang Mole Burrito with chicken (#44), served "American Hot" (thankfully, they will custom alter the degree of hotness you prefer). The other time I had a Panang style dish was in NYC @ Fatty Crab. I blogged about that a couple of months or so ago, as it was a transcendent meal for me. This one was extremely tasty, and did no disrespect to the name, as well. Plus, the portion size was more than generous, which is always a plus for an eater like me. The thing I love about this type of food is, when done correctly, you can really pick up all the intricacies of the sweet and spicy flavors. The coconut milk, the chilis, etc. It was served with two dipping sauces: one was a terrific homemade mole sauce; the other was a sweet & spicy number that featured honey and Thai basil. I basically could've lapped up both with or without the burrito on the plate!

I dug the decor, was impressed with the extensive, affordable menu options (and beer choices!), and was psyched that at 1pm on a random Wednesday, the place was full! It heartens me to know that locals will always find a place that serves solid food, especially when it's as unique as Nitally's...

The Weekend That Was...aka Great Eats in DC

2010-09-15T11:49:00.009-04:00

Just got back from a fun-filled (and food-filled) weekend @ my sister's in the DC area. Celebrated my Dad's 65th and my son's 7th birthdays with the whole fandamily! And anytime we get together...you can bet the food and wine is plentiful!

My brother-in-law subscribes to a "Go Big or Go Home" philosophy, and I am more than happy to partake and partner up. Here is a sampling...

Friday night: Italian Buffet. Veggie lasagna and two different homemade pizzas. One with roasted tomatoes; one with prosciutto. Both were fresh and tasty, and done on the grill, which really made a difference, especially in the crust. I do not have a pizza stone, but these pizzas vaulted it to the top of my list of kitchen gadgets to get. The pizzas took less time to bake than in the oven, and the crusts were an ideal combo of crispy and pliant... Larry has an extensively impressive wine collection, and he is more than generous in his sharing and sampling. After all, that's what drinking wine is all about, right?? We started with a spicy Demuth Kemos Syrah and moved onto a cultish Cab from Harlan known as The Maiden... both were impeccable...

Saturday night: Surf & Turf. Larry and I ventured to a "locals only" DC-based fish market, at a marina off the Potomac River and right near the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. One look at this market and you can tell it was legit. It was one of the more impressive and bountiful markets I've visited. Right off the boats. Eat it there in the parking lot, fresh or fried. Or take it home in plastic bags, still squirming and/or snapping. Captain White's Seafood City boasts the Chesapeake Bay's Finest catches, and who am I argue?! The place was teeming with live lobsters, shrimp, and all varieties of crab, the most impressive of which are the blue crab by the bushel. We chose five lobsters, along with some fresh, jumbo lump crab meat, and were on our way...

Larry already had a beef tenderloin marinating, and some pineapple salsa prepped for the lobster. When we got back, we cleaved our crustaceans down the middle, removed the tails and claws, stuffed the tails with butter and lemon, and placed them all on the grill. The rest of the lobsters -- shells, innards, etc. -- went into a vat to make a lobster stock for later use. Credit to my brother-in-law for his outstanding economical and efficient use of all the parts!! That's some classic chef training stuff right there!

The third and final component to this smorgasbord feast was a mushroom truffle risotto. While I was merely a prep cook/sous chef for the former entrees, this latter part was where I earned my stripes in Larry's kitchen. I was in charge of babysitting the arborio rice, as it slowly cooked amongst the sauteed mushrooms and chicken broth. After a long while of gentle stirring, we added a dose of white truffle oil, and that just took the taste over the top, not to mention aided in softening up with texture and consistency to get it where it needed to be. And when it was just about right...we finished it off with a healthy portion of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

EDITOR'S NOTE: The difference between this type of cheese and straight Parmesan cheese is where the cheese is crafted. P-R is made under strict guidelines in certain provinces of Italy (Parma, Reggio-Emilia, Modena). Parm imitates it, without having the former's pedigree, per se. I have never claimed to have an experienced palette, but I can assure you there is a difference, and it is worth the extra few $$$ to splurge for the real deal!

Everything was primo. The food. The wine. And especially the family!

Rosh Hashanah = Great Eats!

2010-09-09T08:48:00.004-04:00

Happy New Year to all who are celebrating. I've always felt the one thing many religions and ethnicities can agree upon is the fact that a major tie that binds us all are the family meals we prepare for special occasions. That could be Sunday dinners, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and, in my case this time of year, Rosh Hashanah dinner.
I am very fortunate have come from a long line of great cooks, and, as is always the case, the best recipes are the ones handed down generationally. The meal I prepared last night for family and friends is no different. I am not going to re-post my brisket recipe, but I invite you to search for it in this blog's archives. I make it every year for this holiday and for Passover.
But I will regale you with another big winner, and staple of Jewish comfort food:
Spinach Noodle Pudding.
My mom gave me this recipe, which comes from her mom (my Nanny Seena), which comes from her mom (my Nanny Sadie), and who knows how many before them. It is rich, creamy, and hearty, but if you make it with just the right amount of love, it still tastes pretty light.

Thaw and drain 4 10 oz. boxes of frozen chopped spinach.
Cook a 16 oz. bag of egg noodles.
Meanwhile, saute 3 onions in butter until soft.
When noodles are done, combine all three in a large mixing bowl.
Add 1 large container of sour cream.
Add 6 eggs, slighly beaten.
Add 1 stick margarine (or butter), melted.
Combine all ingredients and season generously with salt and pepper.
Bake in an large baking dish at 350 degrees for 45:00, or uuntil slighly browned on top and firm inside.

Here's to a great New Year for all of us. And certainly great eats, too...

Lazy Sundays are Perfect for Pancakes

2010-09-05T12:08:00.005-04:00

Most Sundays I try to experiment with new pancake recipes. Something other than the traditional batter. I recently used cornmeal to make my batter, but it needs some work (or maybe a spring form) to achieve the loft and density of the kinds I've loved in restaurants.
This morning, I went with another twist, ricotta. It's one of my favorite ingredients to work with, because it's so versatile, and so creamy. I used it as a layer on my chicken cutlets -- between marinara sauce, bacon, and mozzarella -- the other night for dinner. So I had the perfect amount to incorporate this morning for a lazy Sunday breakfast. I've learned through my readings that a good chef always uses the entire amount of what he purchases, so it makes me feel good to put this to good use. I happen to like this particular recipe, from Neal Fraser (F&W mag). They are light and thin, but have a smooth, creamy texture, and the warm blueberries inside release their sweet juices with every bite...

Ricotta Pancakes with Blueberries

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3 large eggs, separated
1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons milk
6 ounces ricotta cheese (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
Unsalted butter, for the griddle
1 pint fresh blueberries or 2 cups frozen blueberries, thawed
Pure maple syrup, for serving

Directions
1.In a small bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder and salt. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the milk, ricotta, sugar and vanilla. Add the dry ingredients and whisk until the batter is smooth.
2.In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites at medium speed until frothy. Beat at high speed until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the batter until no streaks remain.
3.Preheat the oven to 225°. Heat a griddle, then lightly butter it. For each pancake, ladle a scant 1/4 cup of the batter onto the griddle; be sure to leave enough space between the pancakes. Cook over moderately low heat until the bottoms are golden and the pancakes are just beginning to set, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle each pancake with a few blueberries and press lightly. Flip the pancakes and cook until golden on the bottom and cooked through, about 1 minute longer. Transfer the pancakes to plates and keep them warm in the oven while you make the rest. Serve the pancakes with maple syrup.

What's For Dinner Tonight?

2010-09-03T15:32:00.005-04:00

Here's what's on the menu @ the Hollenberg house tonight...

(courtesy of Food Network Mag)

Homemade Gnocchi with Wild Mushroom Ragu

Ingredients
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 large onion, diced
2 small carrots, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
2 pounds wild mushrooms, stemmed and diced if large
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 pound cremini mushrooms, stemmed and quartered
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup canned whole San Marzano tomatoes
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground fennel seeds
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
1 1/2 pounds fresh gnocchi
Marscapone and/or fresh mint, for topping

To make the gnocchi:

Bake 4 fork-pierced potatoes at 425 for about an hour.

Halve & scoop the flesh into a bowl. Mash well.

Add 1 beaten egg, 2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese, 1 tsp salt, and pepper until combined.

Add 1c flour and stir to make a rough dough, then mix by hand until smooth.

Gather dough in a ball on floured surface and divide into 8 pieces.

Roll each piece into 12-inch long, 1/2-inch thick logs with your hands.

Cut logs into 1-inch pieces (can be frozen on a floured baking sheet until ready to cook).

Directions
Heat half of the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.

Add the onion, carrots and celery and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.

Add half of the wild mushrooms and cook until golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper, then push to the edges of the pot.

Add the remaining olive oil and wild mushrooms and cook 3 to 5 more minutes. Add the cremini mushrooms and cook 1 more minute. Season with salt and pepper.
Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, about 2 minutes.

Add the wine; cook, scraping up any browned bits, about 2 more minutes.

Add the tomatoes, 2 cups water, the bay leaves, coriander, fennel, red pepper flakes, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste.

Simmer over medium heat, about 30 minutes (thin with water if needed). Season with salt and pepper.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi, stir and cook for 1 minute after they float, about 3 minutes total.

Transfer with a slotted spoon to the pot with the sauce and gently stir over low heat.

Serve topped with mascapone and/or mint.

Can’t Miss: Unique Eats Labor Day Marathon

2010-09-02T14:29:00.000-04:00

Cooking Channel...where I wanna be...

Can’t Miss: Unique Eats Labor Day Marathon

You Say Tomato...

2010-09-02T14:26:00.002-04:00

Great article in the NYT celebrating all things TOMATO! And I love the reference to Scott Conant as Harry Potter...!

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/05/magazine/05Food-t-000.html?_r=1&src=tptw

Hurry Up Biscuits

2010-08-31T21:45:00.002-04:00

Living in the South, as I have for the past 15 years, you become accustomed to a certain level of quality from a few select foodstuffs. One of them: BISCUITS. Flaky. Doughy. Moist. Fluffy. Dense. There must be thousands of recipes out there, and I've already posted my Grandma Stella's recipe a while back, but this one's a winner in its own right...

Here is your weekly recipe fix, this time courtesy of one of my favorite Chef Friend & pastry pro, Marian Getz. This is right up her alley, since she is a wizard when it comes to anything dough or batter-related! Marian just became a grandma (Congrats, Mar!), and you can bet she'll be rollin' out a few of these orders for the friends & family!

Hurry Up Biscuits

Makes 16 biscuits

INGREDIENTS
I love this recipe because the biscuits taste fantastic and yet the recipe is a simple stir-together. Easy as child’s play. This recipe gets all the moisture and fat it needs from the cream eliminating the step of cutting fat into the flour so common in most biscuit recipes. They are so tender and yummy. No one needs to know how easy they are to make! There are so many tasks in the kitchen that take time and effort that it is a real treasure to have a recipe like this in my files that is fast and easy! Your family and friends will love them.

3 cups all purpose flour
4 teaspoons granulated sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups heavy whipping cream

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
2. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment or foil.
3. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and stir together with a fork till a ball forms.
4. You do not need to be gentle with this biscuit dough.
5. Drop desired size mounds of dough onto cookie sheets using an ice cream scoop (easiest and fastest) or 2 spoons.
6. Brush the tops with a bit more cream, if desired for a nicer color.
7. Bake for 15-17 minutes or until golden brown.
8. Serve hot or warm.

TIP: The biscuit raw dough freezes beautifully for up to 3 months. You can bake the biscuits from a frozen state, just add an additional 5 minute to the baking time.

Summer Menu (from FOX 17 Grand Rapids)

2010-08-30T14:21:00.001-04:00

http://www.fox17online.com/videobeta/1c46443a-65f2-4c07-b094-154504527b8e/News/Summer-Menu-6-8-10

Burger Mania!!

2010-08-30T11:07:00.005-04:00

It's been a long weekend of great eats in my world. Not the least of which is because I went to two of the best burger joints St. Pete has to offer in the span of three days.
First up was hands down my favorite to date, El Cap. This place is about 2 miles from house, and has been serving up nothing but the best down and dirty burgers for decades. It's a family run business and consistently tops everyone's lists of "Best Of"... I tend to go for the "Double" (2 patties), but the award-winner is the "World Champ," which is no more and no less your basic burger, no frills. At El Cap, you order the way you want it, and that includes, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and any other toppings you crave. They serve corn-fed Midwestern beef, and while I've been staunchly on the grass-fed beef bandwagon for a while now, it's hard to argue with this quality... I scarfed down mine, only to be outdone by my 5-year-old daughter and he friend, who each crushed a cheeseburger themselves!

Then I indulged myself and my 3 kids on Sunday with a trip to Dairy Inn. (http://www.dairyinn.com/) This place is also a few short minutes from my house (I bought my real estate strategically to be within a few miles drive of burgers, ice cream, beer and wine!), and while we didn't eat lunch, we did enjoy their signature milkshakes. Dairy Inn was one of the nation's first Dairy Queen franchises, back in the '50s, but it dropped the franchise tag and kept the good eats and drinks. They do it all at this place, but they specialize in burgers and shakes for sure. I will report back as soon as I get the chance to sample a burger there... and that will be ASAP! Regardless, the Chocolate Marshmallow Shake I slurped (with a little help from my 1-year-old son) was reason enough to keep me coming back...

And finally, a quick mention of a new blog I was turned on to just today. It comes from a fellow burger lover and blogspotter. Check out http://www.burgerconquest.blogspot.com/ for the lowdown on all things Burger... this dude Rev is a respected aficionado and his site is a wealth of entertaining information about the topic. If you wanna know the best places to grab a burger...he's your man!

A Cheesy Birthday Celebration

2010-08-28T12:24:00.002-04:00

Maybe it's because I had Mac & Cheese on the brain from posting Chef Jamie's recipe a coupla days ago. Or maybe it's because I wanted a meal that I knew would be popular with my wife and kids (and our friends, too)...but I went with my own version of Creamy Dreamy Mac & Cheese for my birthday dinner the other night.
I substituted the goat and blue cheese for Fontina and Gruyere, and it turned out amazingly well. The secret's in the mixture of cheeses (sharp and smooth combo -- the other 3 cheeses were white cheddar, monterey jack, and parmesan) and the panko/parmesan mixture that makes the crust on top. I made two batches, and we cleared the first one easily, dipping into the second 13x9 dish, as well. That left enough for two families to heave two helpings of leftovers!
Good times. Good food. Good family & friends (and good wine, too, in this case!). That's how memories are made...

Matt Entertains: Fig and Blue Cheese Flatbread

2010-08-25T14:07:00.000-04:00

Matt Entertains: Fig and Blue Cheese Flatbread
This one is for all of you who have never given figs a fair shake...they are one of my new favorite things to eat, especially this way (or on a pizza). Wolfgang Puck makes an incredible Pizza @ his San Fran outpost, Postrio, that I had not too long ago, with figs and proscuitto....mmmmmmm....

Summer Fest: Easy Tomato Galette

2010-08-25T14:04:00.000-04:00

Summer Fest: Easy Tomato Galette
Everyone's talkin' tomatoes this time of year...
How simple is this?? Can't wait to try it @ home... even something the kids can get their hands into!

Ultimate 5-Cheese Mac & Cheese

2010-08-24T15:38:00.005-04:00

The latest installment of my Chef Friend Series comes to us from a dear friend and multimedia talent, Chef Jamie Gwen. She and I worked together for years on TV, and I learned a lot from her, for sure. But it is without question that her Mac & Cheese recipe is the best takeaway of them all! I hope you will take the time to try this one at home. You may have to invest in a bit more cheese varieties than you're used to, but it's easy to prepare, and it's the little extra touches that make it so delicious and unique. Please visit http://www.chefjamie.com/ to learn more about her, and make sure to check out her weekly radio show, broadcasting out of California! Thanks Jamie! And as she says, "From my kitchen, to yours..."

Ultimate 5-Cheese Macaroni & Cheese

Cook 1 lb. pasta shells in salted boiling water until al dente. Drain well.

Preheat oven to 375. Butter a 13x9 baking dish.

Combine 1/2c Panko bread crumbs and 1/2c grated Parmesan cheese. Set aside.

In a large pot over medium heat, bring 2c heavy whipping cream to a simmer.

Reduce heat, and add 1c white cheddar, 1c Monterey Jack, 1/2c grated Parmesan, 1/2c goat cheese. Stir until all the cheeses melt.

Add 1c blue cheese and cooked pasta and stir until combined. Salt & pepper to taste.

Pour mixture into the baking dish. Spread bread crumb mixture evenly over the top.

Bake uncovered until golden brown, approx. 20:00.

Video: Bacon-Wrapped Pork Meatloaf Sandwiches

2010-08-23T20:36:00.000-04:00

Video: Bacon-Wrapped Pork Meatloaf Sandwiches

OK, I admit: I haven't even watched this vid...but WTF! -- Bacon-Wrapped Pork Meatloaf?!?!!? Benefit of the doubt, baby...
Lemme know what you think...

Bakin' Whoopie

2010-08-23T16:08:00.004-04:00

Had to share this will my fellow food lovers. A chef friend of mine, David Rubell, and his wife, Roxy, have an outta-this-world Whoopie Pie Company, cleverly called Baking Whoopie (http://www.bakingwhoopie.com/). Dave's got one of the more curious and interesting backgrounds I've ever heard. He's worked for Bruce Springsteen and Jackson Brown, cooked for 5 Presidents, and now is a Master Chef/Gourmet Caterer in the LA area...

Anyway, back to the pies. They're based in California, but will ship around the country! It is a confection taken to the gourmet level, using the best locally sourced ingeredients available to them. It will totally take you back to your childhood, and at the same time make you re-think the wonder of the Whoopie!

They also have a savory sensation that has taken on a life of its own: Butternut Souffle. Despite my pleadings, Dave would not give up the recipe for this one. It's been in his vault for 15+ years and he has no intention of releasing it anytime soon.... apparently, it's THAT GOOD! Its reputation precedes itself, so I would check into ordering yours early. He uses a local farmer to source the squash, and that is just one of the keys to this heavenly creation.

So, spread the word about this company and this site. You'll thank me once you taste them!!

My Favorite Breakfast Date...

2010-08-22T12:35:00.003-04:00

My 5-year-old, Lindsey, is quickly becoming my partner in crime when it comes to eating and trying new places to dine. To that end, I (we) finally made it to Skyway Jack's in St. Pete yesterday morning...

This place has a reputation that precedes itself. It was recently written up in Food Network Magazine as a top breakfast spot in the country (http://www.tampabay.com/news/briefs/skyway-jacks-gets-nod-for-best-breakfast-in-florida/1104543), and it is as kitschy as the food is good.

Lindsey got a kick out of the giant Humpty Dumpty and Rooster that greet you outside the place. And inside, it's hog heaven, with a shelf above the counter lined with ceramic pigs. Fun stuff, for sure.

Their food was as I expected, and as you'd look for in a place like this. They specialize in the classics, but also have some things on the menu that will surprise you... like... Brains 'n' Eggs. Yes, Brains. And scrambled eggs. Mixed together. Pig Brains, to be exact. Talk about a "whole hog" philosophy! After some research, I come to find that this is indeed accepted practice, and a type of "redneck cuisine" (not my choice of words!)... Being an adventurous eater, I have filed this one away in the ol' mental rolodex to sample at a later date...

The dish that got them national acclaim is their take on a Philly tradition: scrapple. I went with the Hobo Hash this time around (a mash-up of eggs,bacon, onions, peppers and cheese, with a side biscuit and gravy), but will certainly make this dish my next order when I return. I spend a good amount of time in the Philly area, so I look forward to reporting back on how legit this actually is...

No Sauce, No Problem, on "Daytime"

2010-08-22T10:25:00.002-04:00

Sensational Savory Cupcakes from Across the U.S.

2010-08-20T14:35:00.000-04:00

One word: YUM!

Sensational Savory Cupcakes from Across the U.S.

Which 'Wich Do You Like?

2010-08-18T14:07:00.003-04:00

Just entered a Sandwich Recipe Contest... here's what I submitted. What are your favorite sammies? Feel free to comment below!

Italian Umami Sandwich

This sandwich has components that are singularly crunchy, crispy & creamy; salty, sweet, & savory… and sometimes each ingredient has more than one of these qualities. They all balance each other out to create a wonderfully harmonious taste with each bite. I love the combination of the 2 varieties of pork – you can never have enough charcuterie, if you ask me! And I added the sundried tomato to the aioli because I thought it would be too cumbersome to add a tomato slice to the architecture, but I wanted tomatoes to be represented.

Crunchy (toasted Italian bread)
Crispy (pancetta)
Creamy (buffalo mozzarella)
Salty (prosciutto)
Sweet (roasted peppers)
Savory (sundried tomato basil aioli)

· Toast 2 slices Italian Bread (about ½” thick) on one side. Use toasted side on the inside of the sandwich.
· Spread Sundried Tomato Basil Pesto Aioli on bottom slice.
· Layer Sweet Roasted Red Peppers on top of aioli.
· Place 2 slices of Prosciutto on top of peppers.
· Lay ½” slice Buffalo Mozzarella on top of prosciutto.
· Place thin-sliced crispy Pancetta on top of mozzarella.
· Top with Baby Arugula.
· Finish with top slice of bread (toasted side inside again).

BON APPETIT!

Roy's Signature Blackened Ahi with Soy-Mustard Sauce

2010-08-17T22:17:00.007-04:00

I am so honored to feature this next Chef on RICH COOKS!. He is one of the men in this industry who truly inspired me, and taught me, when all I had was an inkling of an idea of what to do with ingredients, a kitchen, and some cookware. Roy Yamaguchi is an innovator and a legend in the pantheon of chefs. Up and comers and established celebrities alike credit him with blazing a path that didn't exist before he came along. Hell, before Roy became one of the most prolific restaurateurs of our generation, he all but created "fusion" as it relates to creative cookery.

So it with great pride and the utmost respect that I include this recipe from Roy. He is as fine a man as he is a chef...

About this dish, Roy says: "This is my Pacific Rim version (of Paul Prudhomme's blackened fish). It's been on the menu since I opened my first Roy's restuarant in Hawaii in 1988. And if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then I am most flattered by similar versions you'll find in many restuarants across the States..."

And I will add, these two sauces he uses for this signature dish are excellent go-to recipes in and of themselves. You make them once, and you'll want to incorporate them into all of your fish (and other protein) preparations...

Soy-Mustard Sauce
1/4c mustard powder
2 tbsp. hot water
2 tbsp. rice wine vinegar
1/4 c soy sauce

Mix mustard powder and hot water together to form a paste. Add vinegar and soy sauce, mix, and pass through a mesh sieve into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate an hour.

Beurre Blanc Sauce
1/4c dry white wine
2 tsp. white wine vinegar
1 tsp. fesh lemon juice
1 tbsp. minced shallot
2 tbsp. heavy cream
1 stick cold unsalted butter, chopped
1/4 tsp. salt
fresh ground pepper

Combine wine, vinegar, lemon juice, and shallot in stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook to reduce liquid until it becomes syrupy. Add cream and reduce by half. Decrease heat to low and gradually add butter, stirring slowly. Season with salt and pepper and strain into a double boiler. Keep warm over barely simmering water.

Blackening Spice
1 1/2 tbsp. paprika
1/2 tbsp. cayenne
1/2 tbsp. chile powder
1/4 tbsp. white pepper

Dredge 8 oz. Ahi Tuna fillet in Blackening Spice on all sides.
Heat 2 tbsp. EVOO in a nonstick skillet over high heat.
Sear fillets for 15-30 seconds (rare) to 1 minute (medium rare) per side.
Remove ahi and cut into approx. 20 thin slices.
Spoon the Soy-Mustard and Buerre Blanc sauces around the slices.
Sprinkle with toasted black sesame seeds.

... Sounds like A LOT of work? Well, it is, especially compared to what I usually post on this site. But, coming from the man who basically invented this dish for U.S.-based eaters, it's worth it! You don't mess with the original... ALOHA & MAHALO

Take that, Paula Deen!

2010-08-16T22:40:00.007-04:00

I embraced my inner Paula Deen tonight, minus the sack of sweets, and this Northern boy got in touch with the South! The menu for dinner: Fried Green Tomato BLT Sandwiches! I went for it, inspired by F&W mag's tribute to Southern cooking recently. Lord willin' & the creek don't rise, this won't be the last time I channel some good, old-fashioned Southern recipes...

Slice unripened green tomatoes 1/2 thick.
In three shallow bowls: 1/2c all-purpose flour; 1 beaten egg w/ 1 tbsp. water; 1/2c corn meal.

Dredge tomatoes in 'assembly line' mentioned above. Set aside slices on parchment paper.

Heat 1/4" vegetable/canola oil in large sautee pan. Fry tomatoes until golden brown on each side.

Meanwhile, prepare 2 strips of bacon per each tomato slice.

Spread mayo on whichever type of thick cut bread or bun you choose. Top with arugula.

Place fried green tomatoes on bread/bun with mayo, bacon, arugula.

I served my sandwiches with a side of cream style corn, and a nice New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (Kim Crawford -- my favorite).

This dinner was light, fun, delicious... and a really nice diversion from the usual, especially from what this Jewish kid from New Jersey is used to cooking!

Chicken Burgers with Spicy Peanut Sauce

2010-08-15T22:04:00.005-04:00

Got back to cookin' for my family this weekend, after so much travel this summer. Went a little bit left of my usual center this time, with a recipe I found from F&W mag. Actually made this once before @ my sister's house, and liked it so much that I wanted a redux in my home kitchen. If you like Thai-Indian-inspired flavors, here's a good twist on a summertime burger for you... and it only takes about 30 minutes...

In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tbsp. vegetable oil. Add 2 tbsp. chopped red onion & 1 tsp. chile powder; stir until onions are soft (a few minutes).
Add 1/4 c coconut milk; bring to boil.
Take off heat; whisk in 2 tbsp. each smooth peanut butter, hot water, chopped salted peanuts.
Mix 1 1/2 lbs. ground chicken, 1 tsp. each chile powder, garam masala, salt, 1 tbsp. vegetable oil, 1/4 c chopped red onion.
With lightly moist hands, form into 4 large patties.
Grill/pan fry chicken patties approx. 8-10 minutes, until done all the way through.
Spread the peanut mixture on buns; serve chicken patties on the buns. Enjoy!!

These burgers are great with a dark beer or white wine. Try 'em both, what the hell..!

Green Grape & Wasabi Salsa, by Wolfgang Puck Chef Marian Getz

2010-08-06T15:32:00.005-04:00

This is Week 3 of my series of Celeb Chef Friends & Their Favorite Recipes...

Marian Getz is one of Wolfgang Puck's "Go-To" Girls when it comes to baking and cooking. I've had the pleasure of working with them many times back in the day, and Marian is so skilled and brings so much love and care to her kitchen creations. She was kind enough to share this recipe with me (and you!), proving once again, that she's not just an accomplished Pastry Chef, she's also terrific when it comes to savory stuff, as well... if you want to find out more from Marian, check out http://www.mariangetz.com/... thanks, Marian!!

Green Grape and Wasabi Salsa
Makes 2 cups

I love this salsa with tortilla chips but it is really my favorite topping for a freshly seared piece of ahi tuna or even a grilled chicken breast!
INGREDIENTS
2 cups green grapes, (try to find extra green ones as they are a bit less sweet in taste)
¼ white onion, in a large wedge
2 cloves garlic, peeled
6 sprigs cilantro
The juice of ½ of a lime
½ of a jalapeno, more or less to taste
1 tablespoon wasabi paste
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Method
1. Combine ingredients in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “S” blade.
2. Pulse until texture is chunky.
3. Serve immediately.

TIP: You can prep the ingredients ahead of time but wait to process it until the last minute or the onions get too strong and change the taste of the salsa.

Hurry Up Biscuits, by Wolfgang Puck Pastry Chef, Marian Getz

2010-08-06T15:30:00.006-04:00

Living in the South, as I have for the past 15 years, you become accustomed to a certain level of quality from a few select foodstuffs. One of them: BISCUITS. Flaky. Doughy. Moist. Fluffy. Dense. There must be thousands of recipes out there, and I've already posted my Grandma Stella's recipe a while back, but this one's a winner in its own right...

Here is your weekly recipe fix, this time courtesy of one of my favorite Chef Friend & pastry pro, Marian Getz. Marian just became a grandma (Congrats, Mar!), and you can bet she'll be rollin' out a few of these orders for the friends & family!

Hurry Up Biscuits

Makes 16 biscuits

INGREDIENTS
I love this recipe because the biscuits taste fantastic and yet the recipe is a simple stir-together. Easy as child’s play. This recipe gets all the moisture and fat it needs from the cream eliminating the step of cutting fat into the flour so common in most biscuit recipes. They are so tender and yummy. No one needs to know how easy they are to make! There are so many tasks in the kitchen that take time and effort that it is a real treasure to have a recipe like this in my files that is fast and easy! Your family and friends will love them.

3 cups all purpose flour
4 teaspoons granulated sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups heavy whipping cream

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
2. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment or foil.
3. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and stir together with a fork till a ball forms.
4. You do not need to be gentle with this biscuit dough.
5. Drop desired size mounds of dough onto cookie sheets using an ice cream scoop (easiest and fastest) or 2 spoons.
6. Brush the tops with a bit more cream, if desired for a nicer color.
7. Bake for 15-17 minutes or until golden brown.
8. Serve hot or warm.

TIP: The biscuit raw dough freezes beautifully for up to 3 months. You can bake the biscuits from a frozen state, just add an additional 5 minute to the baking time.

Dinner with Schm...

2010-08-06T14:42:00.006-04:00

...no, it was with the Millers, actually. A celebratory night out with our good friends, and we hit up what is now St. Pete Brasserie. This space used to be Table, one of our favorite spots, and this was the first time we're back since the name -- and menu -- change...

It is a classic, Euro brasserie-style menu, with a lot of French-inspired dishes. Mussels. Burgers. Pomme Frittes. Short Ribs. I ended up deciding on three of those four!

I started with the Caesar Salad, and it would've been a winner had it not been drowned in dressing. I like my Romaine crispy, and this was on the soggy side. The taste was there, there was just a bit too much of it. We all shared the steamed mussels, served with a heaping side of pomme frittes (gotta love a brasserie's devotion to the French Fry!). The mussels were a smaller variety, and very tasty, bathing in a garlic, wine, and tomato broth. I went with the traditional burger after that -- it came with melted swiss, and sauteed mushrooms. It was juicy and flavorful. The meat served @ St. Pete Brasserie is purely grass-fed, and grass-fed beef is my new food crush. I've been exposed to it before,but came to truly appreciate and understand its significance and quality last month in Decatur @ Farm Burger (which I blogged about). The meat is tastier, a bit gamier, with more texture than other classifications.

My wife ordered the cod, which was surprisingly light and restrained, and the paella got a thumbs up, as well...

We passed on dessert, but the table next to us had a molten chocolate cake, who's scent drifted coyly over to our table, and smelled positively decadent. There's always next time...

Balsamic Martinis, by Fabio Viviani & Jacopo Fellini

2010-08-04T17:39:00.008-04:00

This is the second installment of my weekly feature of favorite recipes from chef friends and colleagues of mine. I was turned onto the wonders of the Balsamic Martini at a food and wine fest I hosted in Myrtle Beach a couple of months ago. Fabio gained near-instant fame with his turn on "Top Chef" a couple of seasons ago. He didn't win, but was the breakout personality, and I really appreciate his simplified approach to Italian food. Plus, he's a pisser to hang out with! His partner, Jacopo, is the mixologist, and the yin to Fabio's yeng. They're lifelong friends, and their shorthand communication with each other makes it apparent. Anyway, this martini is what they served a drooling crowd at their invite-only wine dinner that weekend... it's a classic Italian combo of stawberry and balsamic taken to a libation level!

It also happens to be one of the few cocktails I've attempted in my home (I'm a wine and beer guy). Made it tonight, to go with a fave recipe of mine, Flat Iron Steak Balsamico, with sliced baby bellas and sundried tomatoes, parmesan green beans with almond slivers, and parmesan roasted potatoes. All done in honor of a dear friend (and mother to my kids' best friends) who's moving away...

Without further ado, I present the Osteria Firenze Balsamic Martini:

Hull 3 strawberries
Muddle together, with the strawberries, 3/4 oz. simple syrup, 12-15 dashes balsamic vinegar, and a wedge of lime
Add mixture to 1 1/2 oz. Vanilla Rum
Add ice and shake well; serve with a strainerDrizzle the inside of the glass with balsamic glaze

We loved this drink, although it didn't quite do justice to the Firenze version. I like how the balsamic from the drink carried through to the balsamic that complimented the steak...

Cheers!

AC...The Place to Be

2010-08-02T22:19:00.011-04:00

Well, I made it back in one piece from my less-than-48-hour jaunt to the (almost) swamps of Jersey (another shout out to Bruce...can't help it!). It was quite the memorable time, rolling with Guy Fieri and the group of Lost Boys he calls his Kulinary Krew. Drove in with a private chef buddy o' mine, E, and we basically hung on the periphery of the madness, sometimes dipping out toes in just enough to know that we couldn't handle a whole weekend of it...
Friday night, my job was to introduce Guy as the guest of honor at the Cheese Steak Battle. Over 700 food fanatics swarmed the Caesars Palladium Ballroom. Two contestants from AC; 2 from Philly. Talk about a border war! The winner was a local -- Tony Baloney's. It was a near-consensus amongst those in the know, and apparently the paying public concurred. Their cheese steak was chopped pretty fine, and had a healthy dose of seasoning to spice up the amazing hoagie roll and near-liquefied provolone. In my eyes, it was no contest...
Saturday started by intro'ing Guy at his Big Bite Brunch @ Phillips Seafood Restaurant, on the pier. The views out there are spectacular, and the space itself was very nice. They oversold the event, so I had the pleasure of welcoming nearly 300 peeps to this gathering. The menu was conceived by Guy and his team (led by the unflappably talented Korina), and executed by the two game Phillips chefs, Sean Dufee (does NOT rhyme with etouffee) and Paul Drew. It was, to put it mildly, unique. If you've never experienced food Guy-style, hearing the menu may shock a traditionalist.
• Drink ~ Mai Tai oh My – fresh fruit and juices blended with Cazadoras Reposado tequila
• Gratis ~ Garlic Parmesan Crab, with King Crab topped with garlic a lemon aioli (mayo) and panko, then broiled
• 1st course ~Grilled polenta with a crawfish Etouffee “Guy style”
• 2nd course ~ Tequila Turkey Fettuccini with Cazadoras Reposado tequila
• Dessert ~ Coffee Banana’s Foster French Toast with Formica Challah Bread

The highlight for me was the 1st course. The grilled polenta had great texture and held up to the crawfish stew and cherry tomatoes. It was hearty, but not overwhelmingly so, which is of note because this was a brunch, mind you, not a dinner. I also need to mention the wonderful bread usesd for the dessert, provided by local bakery, Formica Bros. They also made the tasty tomato bread that was a welcome to every table upon arrival.

The event was a success, and off we went to Guy's cooking demo. Here's where things get reeeally hairy, if you don't know what it's like to live in this world. The team asked me to warm up the crowd and intro Guy again, and I was thrilled to do so. Turns out he SOLD OUT the frickin' theater (Circus Maxximus) to the tune of 1600 people!! It was surreal and exhilarating, to say the least. Guy had 'em eating out of his hand, pardon the pun, the entire time. To be honest, the food he demo'ed is overshadowed by this guy's personality and charm and energy. For the record, he prepared Duck Fried Rice and Blackened Sesame Salmon.
Image aside... the guy can cook, and knows how to handle himself with a pair of tongs and a wok!
E and I finally made our way to the Grand Market to gorge ourselves on beer, wine, and tastings of just about everything...notables in 2 NJ brews, whose names escape me right now, but I will mention them when my brain resumes normal functionality...

Saturday night featured back-to-back Food Network parties, the first featuring Sunny Anderson, poolside, with some interesting cocktails, like a watermelon mojito, and 4 different types of sliders: lamb, chicken, and vegetarian, and a dessert, which was a riff (unsuccessful as such), with shortbread replacing brioche buns, and melted chocolate (pudding) and strawberry preserves in the middle...
Then it was on to the Sweet & Stylish event. It was a packed house, and there were desserts o'plenty! I took a deep breath, and made my around the entire ballroom. A lot of the treats were underwhelming. The one standout was the deliciously creamy ice cream courtesy of Alex Guarneschelli... and the undisputed star for us were the desserts offered up by Philly resto legend Georges Perrier of Le Bec Fin. We were lucky enough to meet the diminutive, feisty chef himself before we walked in, and , unprovoked, he threw his hands in the air and shouted (in his French accent), "I'm done! I'm exhausted!" Apparently, he wasn't kidding. The sad note is that this singular spot will close its doors next spring. But one taste of his smart, sexy, sensational offerings proved undoubtedly that he's still got the magic left in him. Coconut Panacotta with Passion Fruit. Oreo Cookie Mousse. It was heavenly, and I feel fortunate in retrospect to have at least tasted a glimpse at this man's considerable talents...

Those tastings were, almost literally, the icing on the cake of the Festival of Foods...

Put Your Makeup On, Fix Your Hair Up Pretty...

2010-07-29T21:08:00.002-04:00

...& Meet Me Tonight In Atlantic City...
Famous lyrics courtesy of Bruce Springsteen. I will indeed be there myself this weekend (no makeup or hair fixed up, though)... for the Atlantic City F&W Festival. Tons of Food Network stars, great events, and delish eats and drinks to be had. Can't wait to post all the happenings...
Friday night I'm emcee'ing a Cheese Steak Battle with Guy Fieri (2 AC guys vs. 2 Philly guys!); Saturday I intro Guy's Bad Boy Brunch... and the rest of the time I'll be eating and drinking my way into oblivion!
Stay tuned...

Eggs-cellent Breakfast

2010-07-29T15:41:00.006-04:00

Been goin' to the Vinoy Hotel in St. Pete ever since we bought our house in the same neighborhood. Actually got married there. Lots of good time spent at their pool and their restaurants. Food's always stellar, and their brunches are top shelf variety. This morning, we rounded up to troops to meet my folks for breakfast @ their main dining room, Marchand's, and I was treated to one of the more delicious meals I've had in a long time...

It was a Cuban riff on my favorite breakfast, Eggs Benedict. The poached egg was perfection, and it was placed lovingly atop a generous cut of mojo-infused pork belly, which was all mounted on a hunk of toasted Cuban bread. The Hollandaise had a sour cream/orange zest variation, and there was a helping of black beans mixed in for good measure. Underneath it all, some skillet fried hash browns. It was a little bit sweet to compliment the savoriness of the whole deal. I wouldn't use the word euphoric, because that would be reserved for dinners or desserts, but it was damn close, and ranks right up there with some of the finest Eggs Benedicts I've ever had.

This was creatively planned and expertly executed by the chefs and line cooks...

YUM!

Hummingbird Cake, by Chef Art Smith

2010-07-27T13:09:00.006-04:00

Art Smith is one of those people you feel an instant connection to the moment you meet him. I had the pleasure of doing so when we worked together on a TV appearance for his cook book, "Back to the Family." He made a name for himself as Oprah's personal chef, and has a James Beard award and a stellar appearance on Top Chef: Masters to his credit, as well as successful restaurants in Chicago (Table 52) and DC (Art & Soul).

Art's generosity as a chef and humanitarian is as good as it gets. He founded the Common Threads charity (http://www.commonthreads.org/) to help educate children about healthy eating and cultural diversity through cooking and the arts. Herewith is one of his personal favorites he offers up to RICH COOKS!... thanks, Art!

This cake is one of the most requested desserts at Art Smith's Chicago restaurant, Table Fifty-Two.

Servings: Serves 12

Ingredients:
Cake:
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 cups granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 cups chopped ripe bananas
• 1 cup drained crushed pineapple
• 1 cup vegetable oil
• 2 large eggs , beaten
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 cup (4 ounces) finely chopped pecans
Icing:
• 8 ounces cream cheese , at room temperature
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter , at room temperature
• 1 pound confectioners' sugar (about 4 1/2 cups sifted)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Directions:

To make the cake, position racks in the center and bottom third of the oven and preheat to 350°. Lightly butter two 9" round cake pans, sprinkle evenly with flour and tap out the excess. (If you wish, butter the pans, line the bottoms with rounds of parchment paper, then flour the pans and tap out the excess.)

Sift the flour, sugar, baking soda, cinnamon and salt into a bowl. In another bowl, stir or whisk the bananas, pineapple, oil, eggs and vanilla until combined. Do not use an electric mixer. Pour into the dry mixture and fold together with a large spatula just until smooth. Do not beat. Fold in the pecans. Spread evenly into the pans.

Bake until the cake springs back when pressed in the center, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the cakes to wire racks and cool for 10 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the racks (remove the parchment paper now if using). Turn right side up and cool completely.

To make the icing: Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat the cream cheese and butter in a large bowl until combined. On low speed, gradually beat in the sugar, then the vanilla, to make a smooth icing.

Place 1 cake layer, upside down on a serving platter. Spread with about 2/3 cup of the icing. Top with the second layer, right side up. Spread the reaming icing over the top and sides of the cake. The cake can be prepared up to 1 day ahead and stored, uncovered in the refrigerator. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving.

An English(man) in New York

2010-07-20T23:19:00.007-04:00

There aren't many chefs as prolific as Todd English. He is seemingly everywhere, all at once. Whether you think of him as dreamy or dastardly (depending on what you read and/or believe in the tabloids), there is no denying Chef Todd's impact on American dining.

I got to meet and work with Mr. English a few years back, so it was my pleasant surprise (but really, no surprise at all, come to think of it!) to run into him at his newest endeavor, the Todd English Food Hall. Housed in the Plaza Hotel, which has of late been a culinary kiss of death to all chef-types who dare enter, Todd and his team have created a decidedly different dining experience than this Central Park South landmark has seen.On this day, Todd was shooting webisodes for the Today show's web site. I was there when it first opened, so I can't speak to the crowds it attracted or the food it produced, but I can tell you I was impressed with the layout (and my Cafe Au Lait!)...

I'd been following the progress of this Food Hall since it was first announced, and my hopes were that it would be akin to the Ferry Building in San Francisco. What it actually is, I found, is more a nod to Harrod's in London. Not a bad trade off...

This basement space has a Euro vibe all the way: part brasserie, part food court. There are 8 different food serving stations with everything from pizza to pastries; sushi to sandwiches. Sprinkled amongst them in a tasteful yet strategic way are All Things English. You can truly be a Consumer with a capital "C" here, in every sense: eating your way around the square, while filling your shopping bag with cook books, spices, etc. A true union of cooking and commerce!

I salute Todd for having the onions to open such an ambitious undertaking in such a daunting locale...and putting his name smack dab on the front door, no less!

I know I'll be back, and this time, I'll be there to take -- and taste -- the grand tour of the Food Hall... and I won't be surprised in the least to see Todd there, too...

10 Degrees of Separation...

2010-07-18T16:37:00.005-04:00

Rounded out my Atlanta eating adventures with dinner at 10 Degrees South (http://www.10degreessouth.com/) in Buckhead. A unique spot and dining experience that gets high marks for being anything but run-of-the-mill...

This restaurant features South African decor and cuisine. Imagine a mashup of French, Scandinavian, and Mediterranean , and you can start to grasp some of the flavor profiles that show up on the menu. It is deceptively cool and chic on the inside, since the outside looks more like an office building than a restaurant. Lots of dark, warm colors, bamboo, and draperies. They must save a bundle on electricity, because most of the lighting is derived from candles and windows! Romantic? Yes. Practical? No. (this is my one curmudgeonly criticism of upscale spots like this)...

Eating with our good friends, the Deutschers (Tara gets credit for the dining selection), we shared a handful of apps with our drinks: lobster and chicken curry egg rolls, which were very tasty and served with dollops of mashed potatoes. They were long and thin; more like Mexican taquitos than egg rolls. The lobster ones came with a Russian dressing-inspired sauce -- I'm guessing it was a wink-and-a-nod to the traditional Lobster Thermidor accompaniment. The chicken version has a nicely spicy/creamy Sambal (chile based sauce) with it. This, along with Bobotie (a minced meat dish) were some of South African-inspired terms and tastes I was introduced to -- always good to keep learning! Also shared sauteed mushrooms and garlic bread. All simple preparations and presentations...

I ordered off the menu for my entree: the Swordfish special. It came with a side of yellow rice and puree of butternut squash. Its texture reminded me of baby food, but not necessarily in a bad way. It was bright and velvety, with chunks of apple for a bit of extra sweetness. The swordfish was served grilled and lightly seasoned, with a mango chutney and grilled.

We all shared a chocolate molten lava cake for dessert, which for me was a the highlight of the meal. Served with a scoop of pure vanilla ice cream, for my money, there is nothing that matches the combo of cold and warm when it comes to sweets, and we practically licked the plate clean between the 4 of us...

This meal was solid, if not spectacular, and my palate really appreciated something out of the ordinary that 10 Degrees had to offer. I now have a much better appreciation and understanding of what is often called "Rainbow Cuisine"...

Down on the Farm (Burger)

2010-07-15T22:45:00.005-04:00

Another night, another memorable Atlanta meal. This time, it was back to Decatur to see what all the buzz was about concerning 2-month-old Farm Burger (http://www.farmburger.net/). Not too dissimilar from my previous night's meal, inasmuch as the mission statement of this place also focuses its emphasis squarely on the side of local farms and sustainable ingredients. In other words, this is not yo momma's burger joint...

Farm Burger justifies the positive press, and it's not just for the positive vibe it puts out, although that vibe is tangibile. To wit, I quote from a poster on their wall:

Farm Burger wants you to think about your burger - what it is and where it's from. Our burgers are made from 100% grassfed beef that is dry-aged for two weeks and ground daily. Our cows are raised on the sweet grasses of the southeast, and never fed antibiotics, hormones, or grain. Our menu is seasonal and sourced from local farms. Our space is convivial and comfortable - because eating is a celebration to be shared. Our food makes ethical eating easy.

To put it in more digestible terms, grassfed cows are happier cows, healthier cows, and tastier cows... sounds good to me!

The first thing I noticed when I walked in, apart from the throng that had already congregated in and around the place, was the Big Black Board. So many options, all tantalizingly tempting, spelled out in a made-to-order process. I suppose the goal is to expedite the ordering, but for me, it nearly short-circuited my hunger synapses. Do I go with a custom-made creation or order a Blackboard Burger? Gruyere or Sweetgrass Asher Blue? Decisions, decisions. Then, I spotted a burger description out of the corner of my eye: the No. 6! It called to me. I answered (on the first ring). A burger with house cured bacon, atop a sunny-side-up egg, with melted pepperjack cheese and salsa verde as the topper. Sweet potato fries on the side. This was like breakfast, lunch and dinner in my mouth all at once. What a combination! An (almost) literal melting pot of flavors. A union of taste where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. At times like this, I am inspired to near-Shakespearian bliss... Oh, how the bright yellow yolk escaped down the sides once I pressed the bun top ever so delicately on top of this creation! How the thick cut bacon was at once crunchy and chewy! How the pepperjack was melted, spicy perfection, somehow accomplishing the near-impossible, yet noble duty of keeping all the singular ingredients in place! And lastly, how the salsa verde was the final flavor profile to hit my taste buds, providing a last bit of bright, fresh taste! It was ecstasy on a bun...

It dawned on me then, after my initial frustration with not being able to taste each and every variation of Farm Burger available right then and there, full stomach be damned: that is what return trips are for. It is the journey, not the destination.

Although in this case, it's a little bit of both...

The Wonders of Woodfire Grill

2010-07-15T08:50:00.008-04:00

At the risk of hyperbole, my meal last night at Woodfire Grill (http://www.woodfiregrill.com/) stands
as one of the best overall experiences I've ever had at a restaurant. As evidence, I literally dreamed about the food last night, waking up in the middle of the night at the prospect of writing this blog entry! Last time I remember feeling so fulfilled (not full; fulfilled!) was last year, after the tasting menu at Scott Conant's Scarpetta in NYC. Woodfire is Kevin Gillespie's Atlanta hotspot (he of Top Chef Season 6 fame), and if you even casually watched that season and appreciated Kevin's talents, you will know he stays true to himself and his food philosophy on TV and in real life. Woodfire focuses on local, sustainable and organic ingredients. And it shows...

The resto itself is beautiful and welcoming, with lots of natural light to showcase the dark wood that surrounds the interior. Unique lighting fixtures offset the stark, white tablecloths. It's an intimate feel despite the relatively open main dining room and high ceilings. Lots of nooks and crannies to cozy into. Lucky for me, I was with a party of six, and our cousins, Matt & Leigh Anne, have a connection to the owner, so that got us a primo rezzie (7:15) and an even more impressive private room nestled in the back corner...

Started off @ the bar where bartender (or is it mixologist?!) Blake recommended the Left Hand Milk Stout. Blake was a sign of things to come: knowledgeable, friendly, helpful. And as it turns out, spot on with his pick. This Colorado beer "accidentally" mixes in milk sugar to it's stout recipe, the result a dark, yet surprisingly well-balanced taste. They liken it to putting "cream in your coffee." Served in a cold glass on a hot summer night, it was a revelation that a stout can be so refreshing... Check 'em out on their own blog @ http://www.lefthandbrewing.blogspot.com/ ...

Tucked away from a bustling Wednesday night crowd, our waitress Jo Jo was, like Blake at the bar, super-attentive and aiming to please. I scanned their impressive wine list, and had to decide between the $38 Van Duzer Pinot Noir and the $51 Maysara (both from Willamette Valley, OR). She had an instant new fan in me when she promoted the Van Duzer. I could've easily been swayed to the more expensive bottle (which we ultimately ordered second anyway!), but her recommendation showed to me that Jo Jo was an advocate as well as a waitress!So now (deep breath), onto the meal... In true fine dining form, the menu is fairly spartan -- because it changes frequently due to the availability of local, fresh ingredients -- and spilt into three courses. Suffice it to say, every item sounded incredible, so it took us all a while to decide. Although the tasting menu was tempting, we ordered off the menu. Here's my lineup:

1st: Oven Roasted Poblano Pepper with Sheeps Milk Ricotta, Summer Veggie Saute, & Sweet Corn Sauce. So many layers of flavor and texture in this small plate. The spice of the firm pepper, the smooth creaminess of the cheese, the slight crunch of the fresh veggies, even the colors on the plate worked beautifully...

2nd: Wood Grilled Berkshire Pork Belly. Kevin is masterful in a lot of ways, but especially so when it comes to the wonders of The Pig! This pork belly (its texture approached that of a firm foie gras) was so succulent, and served with little neck clams, pickled ramp aioli, and chives. It was artfully displayed on the plate, and the chefs showed restraint in letting the pork belly shine as the star, because the other flavors that complimented it could have been a distraction otherwise. A small smear of aioli here, a dusting of crunchy chives there. It all came together in spades...

Main: Almost everyone else at the table ordered the Pork Loin, but I went with the Wood Grilled Painted Hills Ribeye (my decision colored by the fact that I had the pork belly prior). Of course, pork was never too far away, as the fingerling potatoes were roasted in pork fat (a man after my own heart, this Gillespie!). The steak was perfectly cooked, and I got the distinct impression that the percentage of fat on the cut of steak was left there on purpose. It was served with a roasted pepper chimichurri, but, believe it or not, the most memorable thing on the plate was also the simplest: a solitary charred heirloom tomato that practically melted when I pierced it with my fork and knife. The epitome of this place's culinary value system. It was all unanimously delicious -- including the Butterbean and Carolina Gold Rice Risotto that was at our table, as well...

Still swooning over our meals, everyone ordered dessert, and it was a delicious ending to our meal. I thoroughly enjoyed my Mint Ice Cream Sandwich, with it's chocolate cookie enclosing the ice cream, and chocolate meringue on top, along with a helping of homemade strawberry jam as an extra note. In keeping with the rest of the food served, there were layers of flavor and texture that kept everything in balance...

As a closing aside, I ran into Executive Sous Chef EJ Hodgkinson on our way out. I thanked him for putting out such terrific food, and, as he casually mentioned, he started here right when former chef Michael Tuohy was lighting out for Sacramento to return to his NoCal roots. This is the same Michael Tuohy who's Grange Restaurant I thoroughly enjoyed a couple of weeks back in Sacramento (and blogged about on 6/23)! Turns out Hodgkinson is blazing a similar path as Tuohy, coming to Atlanta to establish and solidify his reputation and skills, and then... who knows...? Best of luck to EJ; I will definitely keep an eye out for him and the most assuredly good things to come...

That said, my recent restaurant raves have come full circle!!

Woodfire is a place I will not soon forget, and plan on returning to as often as I can. It surpassed any expectations I could have had, and is a shining example of the ambitious, yet simple style a restaurant and it's chefs can succeed with by sticking to the basics and infusing their personal creativity and style...

Breakfast in Chattanooga

2010-07-14T11:04:00.010-04:00

Been commuting back and forth from ATL recently, where we spend a good portion of July every year, and we decided to take a side trip with the kids to Chattanooga. We did the whole shebang: stayed in a train car at the Chattanooga Choo Choo hotel, visited Rock City & Ruby Falls @ Lookout Mountain... but for this blog's purposes, I recount our breakfast visit to Aretha Frankenstein's (http://www.arethas.com/), which I had not heard of, and only discovered by typing "breakfast Chattanooga" into my Blackberry Google search bar... turns out Rachael Ray had visited before me (scooped again!) and featured it on her show a while back... but, I digress...

The scene at this converted Victorian style house just off the beaten path of downtown Chatts is definitely hipster: tatts and piercings are the norm. I really dug the alt-rock music choices that played from the iTunes selection, and the mix of pop culture (music, movies) paraphernalia and neon, barroom beer lights added to the coolness factor. A couple of Halloween masks strategically placed gave credence to the place's sir name, too. Only problem was, this tragically hip attitude fell on the bad side when it came to service. My wife's Beglian waffle, while deliciously crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, took forever and a day to arrive (we'd all finished our meals before it came out), and the waiter made no attempt whatsoever to apologize for the delay nor explain it. The cook came out and I tried to engage him with a compliment, only to be rebuffed, like he had no time to waste talking to patrons -- he musta had an appointment to get his nose ring de-boogered...

Now, let's be clear, I make it a point to keep my restaurant blogging decidedly on the positive side: Golden Rule applies here. So I will leave it at that. Onto the food... the saving grace, if you will. The pancakes I enjoyed here were among the BEST, if not top of the charts. They use cornmeal batter and must griddle them with either a spring form or in a pie pan, because one single, solitary pancake has the thickness of 2 or 3 run of the mill ones. The blueberries were abundant, fresh, and whole. Eating this pancake tricked my taste buds into believing I was simultaneously eating super-moist cornbread and blueberry pie at the same time!

If you want to attempt to recreate this in your home, visit http://www.frankensteinmills.com/ to purchase this insanely good mix (and enjoy the cute commercial)...

Another major revelation at Aretha's was the quality of their sky-high, double-decker biscuits, which are served with a sprinkling of granulated sugar on the top AND bottom . The highest praise I can bestow on these is that they rival my all-time fave biscuits from the Flying Biscuit, which I've blogged about on this site before (http://www.flyingbiscuit.com/)...

While my wife may not agree, I would definitely make a return trip to this quirky, funky place, if for no other reason than to indulge in their pancakes one more time. Maybe around Halloween-time, when the patrons may spook you as much as the wait staff...

Another reason why NYC can't be touched....

2010-07-06T23:00:00.004-04:00

The Fatty Crab (http://www.fattycrab.com/) is a quintessential NY restaurant. Equal parts Attitude. Ambiance. And the food. Oh, the food.......

What started as a small, nondescript little joint in the West Village has become a cult and popular fave among anyone who's ever tasted their unique, no-frills take on Asian BBQ. To be more precise, it MALaysian cuisine, but it's the kind you can imagine you'd find if you travelled to Malaysia and stumbled into a place a friend of a friend of a your tour guide knew about, but didn't really want anyone to find out about for fear of it becoming too crowded.

I met my longtime running mate Darren at their newer, UWS spot, and we ate at the bar. The vibe is gritty and laid back, and I must give props to the varied old school tunes that were played at just the right volume so as to add to the aura, not distract from it. The "crew" is no-nonsense, but friendly and accommodating at the same time.

I wanted to go with some menu mainstays, so we started with the Pork Buns. They come out with a silver dollar pancake-size bun folded around a juicy, succulent slab of pork. On the side is a dressed salad with some sliced, cooked egg, and a soup spoon filled with a semi-thick, sweet and salty sauce. As is customary and encouraged, diners at Fatty Crab should embrace the mash-up, and we did. Mixing it all together was the foreplay...tasting it was... well, you get the idea... what a starter! Could the rest of the meal live up??

Simply put, it did -- D and I shared the Fatty Duck (steamed and fried, on a bed of sticky rice, called tamaki) that would convert even the most ardent anti-duck eaters. Again, eating with our hands was part of the visceral experience, but the flavors were so rich and layered, and the texture of the fat and the meat itself so intense that you really couldn't imagine eating it any other way. Also had the Singaporean Black Pepper Mussels, where the only minor complaint was not having any bread to soak up the incredible both with. Finally, the Short Rib Rendang, braised with kaffir lime, coconut shavings and chili spices. Served in a pile atop more sticky rice, it was a cinch to pull apart and just as easily melted in your mouth. The key, as I've learned, is using the coconut milk as your braising liquid. Just sensational.

Another badass bastion of exceptional eating in NYC...

Shack-in' Up in NYC

2010-07-06T16:16:00.005-04:00

Cross another NYC food pilgrimage off my list: finally made my way to the venerable Shake Shack today. Woo Hoo

(http://www.shakeshack.com/)!!

This jewel of the Danny Meyer empire has as large and loyal a following as any burger joint you'll find. It's reach is ever expanding (new spots opening in the city as well as Miami), but the flagship in the leafy confines of Madison Square Park was where it all started... and where I was headed.

Unfortunately (I think) for me, the UWS annex is the only spot serving the bacon-peanut butter burger, so I opted for the 'Shroom Burger. I know, I know, going from one extreme of gluttony to the opposite end of the spectrum, right? I mean, no Angus beef to be found on my burger... what was I thinking?!? What I was thinking was I wanted the most creative burger experience this modern day "roadside" burger stand could offer, and the 'Shroom was it. Of course, any burger here is not without it sinful specialties! The Shake Shack version of a vegan burger features a crisp fried Portobello with a heaping, melty gob of muenster and cheddar oozing from all sides, with lettuce, tomato, and Shack Sauce (a Thousand Island-esque riff) as the topper.

It lived up to my hopes, although admittedly, I never dreamed my maiden Shack Shack voyage would result in a vegetarian mock-up. To comfort my comfort food cravings, I gave in to the temptation of a peanut butter shake (hand spun) to go with my lunch. Goooo-oood!

Gotta tell ya, it's worth visiting this spot just to see the menu board up close and personal. It's SO NYC! Beer and wine selections, along with frozen custard, and a Shack exclusive, Concretes. Love the name; love the concept even more: dense frozen custard blended at high speed with a choice of mixings. This is the cooler, hipper cousin of the DQ blizzard.

Turned out to be a fantastically tasty way to spend part of a blistering (100+ degrees!!) afternoon in the city...

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2010-07-06T15:19:00.000-04:00

My first pilgrimage to the Shake Shack!
Details to follow...

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